Jonathan Gold

Columnist

Jonathan Gold is the restaurant critic for the Los Angeles Times. He won the Pulitzer Prize in criticism in 2007 and was a finalist again in 2011. A Los Angeles native, he began writing the Counter Intelligence column for the L.A. Weekly in 1986, wrote about death metal and gangsta rap for Rolling Stone and Spin among other places, and is delighted that he has managed to forge a career out of the professional eating of tacos.

Recent Articles

  • Object of Desire: Beurre de Baratte
    Object of Desire: Beurre de Baratte

    If you wander into the Grand Central Market on a Friday or Saturday morning, you may run into the Clark Street Bread pop-up, a long, plain table piled high with warm, freshly baked loaves. If you happen to be lucky enough to land a crackly, vaguely tart country loaf, you will probably be...

  • At Commissary, Roy Choi gets to the essence of veggies
    At Commissary, Roy Choi gets to the essence of veggies

    Not so long ago, the greatest chefs were defined by their crawfish gratins, truffled soups and elaborate pheasant galantines. At the moment, a chef's seriousness may well depend on his or her skill in preparing carrots. Daniel Patterson, of San Francisco's Coi, infuses his carrots...

  • Zach Pollack turns Italian food upside down at Alimento
    Zach Pollack turns Italian food upside down at Alimento

    If you've been to a party in Silver Lake lately, gulped sulfite-free Grenache on a back porch lighted year-round with votive candles and strings of Christmas lights, you know certain things to be true. The neighborhood is not on the Eastside, no matter how passionately some of its...

  • Catfe's debut turns into a kitten party and Jonathan Gold was there
    Catfe's debut turns into a kitten party and Jonathan Gold was there

    Few upcoming restaurants have gotten quite so much play as Catfe, which is hoping to become the first American equivalent of the cat cafes in Japan. Who but the squeamish and the allergic could possibly object to a room where it is possible to throw back an espresso and pet a cat or two for...

  • Petit Trois is a bistro done Lefebvre's way
    Petit Trois is a bistro done Lefebvre's way

    When you are evaluating a sushi bar, you can tell a lot by looking at the tamago, the sweetened omelet often served as a last course. To casual customers, it may be a throwaway, but the consistency and texture reveal a lot about a chef's concentration and skill. In Hong Kong-style...

  • Tsujita Sushi offers fish done the old-fashioned way
    Tsujita Sushi offers fish done the old-fashioned way

    Since the day it opened, Tsujita has attracted mobs to Sawtelle's Little Osaka neighborhood; on sunny weekends, the wait for a table can last an hour or more. Tsujita, a spinoff of a well-respected Tokyo ramen restaurant, is small and accepts no reservations. It also happens to serve the...

  • Alhambra's Shi Hai is best at its simplest
    Alhambra's Shi Hai is best at its simplest

    If you are looking for a clue to Shi Hai, the new Hong Kong-style seafood restaurant in Alhambra, you might find it in the cold cucumber appetizer, a dish that appears at both dim sum breakfast and at dinner. If this is your first time at the restaurant, you might be anticipating the...

  • Review: Superba Food + Bread serves new-generation comfort food
    Review: Superba Food + Bread serves new-generation comfort food

    Your opinion of Superba Food + Bread is probably going to depend on what you think of avocado toast, especially avocado toast that happens to cost $8. If you pay attention to Internet food buzz, you may be aware that avocado toast, which lies at the exact intersection of vegan passion and...

Loading