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Milan Fashion Week: At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier perfects the masculine/feminine look

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Saturday morning started with a knockout collection from Tomas Maier, who made significant strides toward ensuring that Bottega Veneta’s clothes will no longer be secondary to the accessories.

How did he do it? By putting his own spin on the masculine-meets-feminine look that is emerging as a big fall trend, and producing a collection wide-reaching enough to draw everyone in, and make this label a destination for dressing from day to night. He started off with a strong black leather pantsuit with a double-breasted jacket before moving into black dresses in asymmetrically draped fluid jersey with structured, almost mannish, shoulders. Other dresses came in crinkly pleated tulle with tulle ribbon details at the shoulders.

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Black taffeta parkas nipped at the waists were a nod to fall’s techno sport mood. And now that the jumpsuit trend seems to be here to stay, Maier’s version was one of the season’s most sophisticated. In drapey black cashmere, it was sleeveless and asymmetrically cut with a frill down one side.

Just when you thought the palette was going to be all black, blue and dark green, out came romantic pinks and reds. A petal pink gown with a single shoulder strap and a raw-edged ribbon belt was sweet and effortless.

And let’s not forget the fabulous accessories, too -- sculpted black satin wedge boots, woven cross body bags in iridescent leather, and scarab-shaped brooches and pendants.
-- Booth Moore reporting from Milan

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