New York Fashion Week: Rag & Bone’s lighter take on fall’s military trend
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Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville are rising fast in the ranks of top American designers. Because, like Alexander Wang, they have a knack for creating wearable sportswear with a twist.
Though their spring inspiration looked scary on the page -- ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ and desert warfare meet lingerie -- it worked as a jumping-off point for a lighter take on fall’s military trend.
The collection was about adding lingerie-like details and fabrications to classic pieces. A white blazer and utility pants with Broderie Anglaise insets, or a black blazer with a sheer chiffon back, for example. A technical-looking silver and white nylon tailcoat looked great paired with a mint-green gauze skirt. (Maybe mint green will be the spring equivalent of fall’s olive drab.)
They also incorporated a very cool collage print of a beach in Bequia, splashing it on a chiffon tank dress and weaving strips of it to make a macrame bolero top.
With so many great ideas, it was a wonder why the designers obscured them by layering harness bras on top of everything. It was an unwelcome distraction.
-- Booth Moore