Milan Fashion Week: Gucci goes (gentlemen’s) clubbing
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For the spring and summer offerings from Gucci, creative director Frida Giannini envisioned an exclusive British gentlemen’s club, filled with ‘aristocrats, dandies and singers, noblemen and rockstars,’ with a dash of the sporting life thrown in by way of fencing and the equestrian arts.
That meant all manner of Prince of Wales check rendered not only in suits but in waterproof nylon outerwear pieces, and leather accents -- inspired by horse harnesses and saddles --on leather and non-leather pieces including suit coats, biker jackets and hooded parkas.
Colors ranged from icy whites and blues to dusty browns and wine purples, with the occasional dash of burnt orange and flame red.
But the strong suit here -- literally and figuratively -- could be found in the evening wear: sharp-looking, strong-shouldered tuxedo jackets and silk faille pants, both with black-and-white graphics, including exploded checks, microchecks and plaids.
The last jacket to come down the runway was a finely woven mesh of platinum that was one of the few times I’ve seen a full metal jacket done in a way that didn’t come off as dated and down-market as a mirrored disco ball.
It’s just the kind of thing that makes the luxe life look so good on the other side of the velvet rope.
-- Adam Tschorn in Milan, Italy
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