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Water Grill due to reopen after a month of renovations

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Water Grill, the seminal downtown L.A. seafood restaurant that opened in 1991 and blazed a trail on Grand Avenue long before the current nouveau restaurant-and-bar invasion, closed down in mid-December in order to renovate its dining room and kitchen. It will reopen in the next few weeks with an entirely new look and a fresh, updated menu.

I stopped by for a hard-hat tour on Thursday and was amazed by what I saw. There’s little doubt that the restaurant will remain a fine-dining destination, but the place has been updated to allow for a certain casual breeziness. An original wood ceiling was uncovered; old murals were repainted (some were removed); the bar has been moved to a dominant spot in the middle of the room, surrounded by raised booths and augmented with a sleek new raw bar; and the kitchen has been opened up, creating a welcoming flow throughout the space. Lobster tanks are now visible to the dining room and casual bar bites like classic fish and chips have been added to the menu.

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It’s still very much a work in progress, but the construction has moved at a breakneck pace and Water Grill should be ready to dive back into business in about two weeks.

Water Grill, 544 S. Grand Ave., L.A. (213) 891-0900; www.watergrill.com.

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--Jessica Gelt

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