RESTAU-RANTINGS

Omigod, gag me with a restaurant review (“La Serre--The Other Side of the Mountain,” by Lois Dwan, Aug. 4).

Did I read right? The Chef holds back because us country bumpkins are undemanding--but he does well in spite of those restrictions? Give me a break.

Do you really pay people to write such drivel? If the answer is yes, then at least get some drivel from a Valley Girl who loves it out here in the boonies of Studio City, and let Dwan truffle herself into a coma over there on the other side of the hill. . . .

Well, excuse me--got to run. Get into my pickup truck and scoot on over to an In-and-Out burger place for dinner.

FLO LEVY

Studio City