ILK ENMITY

Patrick Terrail of Ma Maison complains to Lois Dwan of his anger “toward the public as a whole . . . because I think it is very fickle” (“Ma Maison Has a Good Sense of Self,” Sept. 8).

Terrail and his ilk (they know who they are) deserve all the public enmity they get, operating their establishments primarily for the benefit of the celebrity crowd, and every once in a while indulging the curiosity of an anonymous diner (at a poor table following a long wait in spite of his reservation).

Terrail should know by now that the celebrity crowd is even more fickle than the general public, and when the celebrities depart last month’s “hot” restaurant, it is left only with the business of those of us who appreciate good food and were treated with respect during the restaurant’s “celebrity” days.

RICHARD CHERNICK

Los Angeles