THE 12 BEST

During the year, The Times’ Food staff taste-tests a great many recipes that are shared by chefs and other food professionals as well as good home cooks. We even develop some recipes in our Test Kitchen to fit whatever story currently is in the mill. At the end of the year the Food staff compares notes on personal favorites that have crossed our palates during the year. But because taste is so subjective a sense, a consensus on the year’s best recipes is not easily come by. We all have our favorites. As a result we resist trying to pick THE year’s best recipe, preferring instead to pick 12 recipes that collectively have the greatest appeal to all of us. A story on fajitas, for instance, proved that like a lot of other people, as a group we find this trendy food tasty. But not everyone agreed on which fajita recipe was the best. La Parrilla’s version garnered the most votes, however, so that is the one we selected for our 12-best list. And so it went throughout the year as we ate our way to a final decision on the exceptional recipes. Since the array of foods we sample ranges from exotic ethnic creations to simple, old-fashioned home cooking, it isn’t surprising that the ones we like best would never fit into a single menu successfully. Individually, however, these dishes are truly memorable. Some are simple foods; others are more complex. They all are winners whose recipes will go into our personal files.

ROYAL SONESTA

DOUBLE CHOCOLATE

CAKE

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup cocoa powder

1/2 cup water

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

4 eggs

Orange-flavored liqueur

Ganache

Cream together butter and sugar until light and creamy. Stir in cocoa and water. Beat 7 minutes with electric mixer. Add flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda. Beat 2 minutes longer. Add eggs. Mix 5 minutes longer.

Pour batter into greased and floured 9-inch layer cake pan. Bake at 350 degrees 30 to 40 minutes or until cake center springs back when lightly touched. Invert onto wire rack to cool completely.

Split cake into 3 horizontal layers. Drizzle orange-flavored liqueur lightly over each layer. Frost layers with refrigerated Ganache. Pour remaining unrefrigerated Ganache over top layer to glaze. Makes 1 (3-layer) cake.

Ganache

18 ounces semisweet chocolate (squares or pieces)

1 1/2 cups whipping cream

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over simmering water. Add whipping cream. Remove from heat. Remove 2 cups chocolate mixture and set aside. Refrigerate remaining chocolate mixture until thick and creamy. Use refrigerated portion for spreading between layers. Use unrefrigerated portion for glazing top layer of cake.

LA PARRILLA’S FAJITAS

1 to 1 1/4 pounds skirt steak or rib eye steak

1 (8-ounce) bottle Italian dressing

4 slices bacon, cut into 1-inch squares

Oil

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

2 poblano chiles, cut into strips

1 onion, cut into 1/4-inch slices

5 plum tomatoes, quartered

4 yellow chiles

4 green onions

1/2 small lemon

Tortillas

Salsa

Marinate steak overnight in dressing. When ready to cook, drain meat and cut into strips. Cook meat with bacon on large griddle or in heavy skillet 4 minutes, sprinkling with small amount oil. Season with Worcestershire and some of garlic salt while cooking.

Cook poblano chiles and onion alongside meat on griddle or in separate skillet for same amount of time, sprinkling with oil and remaining garlic salt. Add tomatoes to vegetables and cook about 2 minutes.

Place yellow chiles on griddle or in skillet and cook until brown in spots. Dip green onions in oil, place on griddle or in skillet and char lightly.

Combine meat and vegetables except green onions on sizzling hot griddle or on heated platter. Arrange green onions over top. Squeeze lemon juice over before serving. Accompany with tortillas and salsa. Makes 4 servings.

MEXICAN JOE’S NACHOS

4 corn tortillas

Oil for deep-frying

1/2 cup refried beans

1 1/2 cups shredded Chihuahua or Jack cheese

Guacamole

Sour cream

1 small tomato, seeded and diced

Green Sauce

Red Sauce

Cut each tortilla into 6 wedges. Deep-fry wedges until crisp. Drain on paper towels. Paint each wedge with about 1 teaspoon refried beans. Place on heat-proof serving platter. Top with shredded cheese. Place in hot oven or under broiler just long enough to melt cheese. Do not allow tortilla chips to burn.

Top each chip with 1 heaping teaspoon Guacamole, then about 1/2 teaspoon sour cream. Place a few pieces diced tomato on top of sour cream. Place more Guacamole in center of platter. Serve Green Sauce and Red Sauce on side. Makes 4 servings.

Guacamole

4 avocados

1/2 medium onion, finely chopped

2 teaspoons lime juice

2 small serrano chiles, finely chopped

2 tablespoons evaporated milk

1 teaspoon olive oil

Salt

Peel avocados. Place in bowl and mash coarsely. Add onion, lime juice, chiles, milk and olive oil and season to taste with salt. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

Green Sauce

1/4 pound (about 1 cup) serrano chiles

1 1/2 large tomatoes

1/4 large onion

1 small clove garlic

2 whole cloves

1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon salt

Dash white pepper

1 tablespoon oil

Place chiles, tomatoes, onion and garlic in saucepan. Add water almost to cover, bring to boil and cook until vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Drain. Turn into blender.

Add cloves, cumin, salt and pepper and blend. Heat oil in skillet. Add sauce and bring to boil. Simmer 2 or 3 minutes, until cooked. Remove from heat and cool. Makes about 1 1/3 cups.

Note: Sauce will be very hot. Reduce quantity of chiles, if desired.

Red Sauce

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

1/4 medium onion, chopped

1 serrano chile, chopped

1/4 cup cilantro leaves, chopped

1 teaspoon vinegar

1/2 teaspoon lime juice

Salt

Combine tomatoes, onion, chile, cilantro, vinegar and lime juice and season to taste with salt. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

CAFE BEAUJOLAIS’

BUTTERMILK-CINNAMON

COFFEECAKE

2 1/4 cups flour

1 cup brown sugar, packed

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

3/4 cup corn oil

1 cup sliced almonds

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 egg

1 cup buttermilk

Mix flour, brown sugar, granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, salt and ginger. Blend in oil until smooth. Remove 3/4 cup mixture and combine with almonds and remaining 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Mix and set aside.

To remaining flour mixture, add baking powder, baking soda, egg and buttermilk. Blend until smooth. Pour into buttered 13x9-inch baking pan. Sprinkle reserved nut mixture evenly over surface of batter. Bake at 350 degrees 35 to 40 minutes. Place pan on wire rack to cool. Cut into squares to serve. Makes 8 to 12 servings.

RG’S CHOCOLATE-PECAN-

TOFFEE MOUSSE TART

2 cups chopped pecans

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons water

14 ounces semisweet chocolate

2 tablespoons oil

2 cups whipping cream

Whipped cream, optional

Whole pecan halves, optional

Toffee Sauce

Grind pecans in food processor until fine. Melt butter in saucepan. Add sugar and heat, stirring with wire whisk, to thick smooth paste.

Remove from heat and add water, stirring constantly. Pour syrup over pecans and mix thoroughly. Let cool slightly.

Butter 1 (12-inch) tart pan with removable bottom. Press pecan mixture over bottom and up sides of pan. Bake at 325 degrees 10 minutes or until golden brown. Remove and let cool at room temperature.

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler. Stir in oil until mixture is smooth and almost liquid.

Whip cream until soft peaks form. Add hot chocolate, folding gently until well blended. Refrigerate 2 hours.

Remove mousse from refrigerator and stir to check mixture is smooth. Spoon into pastry bag and pipe into pecan crust, or spoon evenly into crust. Refrigerate. Before serving, decorate with whipped cream and whole pecan halves. To serve, spoon Toffee Sauce onto bottom of dessert plate and top with tart. Or serve sauce separately. Makes 16 to 20 servings.

Toffee Sauce

1/2 pound unsalted butter

1 3/4 cups sugar

2 cups whipping cream

Melt butter in saucepan over medium heat. Add sugar and stir frequently until mixture is deep caramel color. (Doesn’t matter if butter and sugar separate at this point.)

Remove from heat and slowly add whipping cream, stirring constantly. Strain sauce and let cool. Heat before serving. Makes about 3 1/2 cups sauce.

Note: Mixture will bubble up and release very hot steam when cream is added. Use whisk with long handle or wear oven mitt.

GELSON’S VEGETABLE

CHILI

1/2 cup dry kidney beans

1/4 cup bulgur

1/2 cup olive oil

1 small red onion, cubed

1 small sweet white onion, cubed

1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic

1/2 cup cubed celery

1/2 cup cubed carrots

2 tablespoons chili powder

2 tablespoons cumin

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

4 teaspoons chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

1 yellow squash, cubed

1 zucchini, cubed

1 green pepper, cubed

1 sweet red pepper, cubed

1 cup mushrooms

1/2 cup cubed tomatoes

1/2 cup tomato paste

3/4 cup white wine

Salt, pepper

Soak beans in cold water to cover overnight. Drain. Add 3 cups fresh water to beans and cook over medium heat until tender, about 45 minutes. Drain, reserving cooking liquid.

Bring 1/2 cup water to boil. Pour over bulgur in bowl. Let stand 30 minutes to soften wheat (water will be absorbed).

Heat olive oil in large saucepan. Add red and sweet onions. Saute until tender. Add garlic, celery and carrots. Saute until glazed. Add chili powder, cumin, cayenne, basil and oregano. Cook over low heat until carrots are almost tender.

Add squash, zucchini, green and red peppers and mushrooms. Cook 4 minutes. Add bulgur, kidney beans, tomatoes and reserved liquid from cooking beans. Cook 30 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Mix tomato paste with white wine until smooth. Stir into vegetable mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 8 servings.

CHIANTI PESTO

3/4 teaspoon rock salt

1 ounce pine nuts

1 ounce garlic

3 ounces small basil leaves

3/4 ounce grated Pecorino cheese

1 1/4 ounces grated Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan) cheese

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Using marble mortar and wooden pestal, mash together rock salt, pine nuts and garlic. Blend in basil to make coarse paste. Gradually add cheeses and oil. Makes 1 cup.

EVAN KLEIMAN’S ARISTA

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 to 2 tablespoons fennel seeds

1 teaspoon coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 (7-pound) boneless pork rib roast

Fruity olive oil

Make paste of minced garlic, fennel seeds, salt and pepper to taste with mortar and pestle or mash with side of chef’s knife. Unroll roast, if tied. Spread most of paste over meat, reserving 1 tablespoon or more.

Roll and tie roast so that white tenderloin is in center and dark meat is outside. Make a few incisions with sharp knife about 1/2 inch deep in roast and stuff some paste into incisions. Rub olive oil over meat and place in roasting pan.

Roast, uncovered, at 350 degrees, 2 1/2 to 3 hours or until thermometer inserted in center registers 170 degrees. Baste roast 2 or 3 times with pan juices. Remove roast from oven and cool slightly. Slice into 1/2-inch slices and drizzle olive oil over meat, if desired. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

DONNA’S RABBIT

1 rabbit, cut up

Salt, pepper

Flour

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

Oil

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 cup minced onions

1/2 cup minced celery

1/2 cup minced carrots

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can chicken broth

1/2 cup white wine

1 small bay leaf

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

2 eggs

1/2 cup milk

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

Chopped parsley

Sprinkle rabbit pieces with salt and pepper to taste. Dredge in flour. Melt butter with 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven and saute rabbit until brown.

Remove rabbit. Add garlic, onions, celery and carrots to pan and saute until tender.

Stir in chicken broth and wine. Add rabbit and bay leaf. Bring to boil, then cover, reduce heat and simmer until rabbit is tender, about 30 minutes.

Mix together 1 1/2 cups flour and baking powder. Combine eggs, milk, 1/4 cup oil and thyme. Stir into flour mixture to form sticky dough. Drop dough by tablespoons onto rabbit and boiling liquid.

Cover and simmer 15 minutes (do not remove cover). Uncover and sprinkle parsley over dumplings. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Dumplings will absorb liquid as they cook. If additional gravy is desired, remove dumplings to warm platter and keep warm. Combine 1 1/2 teaspoons flour with 1 cup water or chicken broth and add to Dutch oven. Bring mixture back to boil, reduce heat and cook about 5 minutes. Return dumplings to pan and heat briefly before serving.

WINERY’S OATMEAL-

COCONUT MUFFINS

1 cup rolled oats

1 cup buttermilk

1 cup sifted flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 cup melted shortening or oil

1/2 cup brown sugar, packed

1 egg

3/4 cup shredded coconut

Strawberry preserves

Combine oats and buttermilk in bowl. Let soak at least 30 minutes.

Sift flour with salt, baking soda and baking powder.

Blend together melted shortening, brown sugar, egg and coconut, then add to oatmeal mixture. Blend well. Stir in dry ingredients, mixing only enough to moisten.

Spoon into greased muffin tins. Using small teaspoon, place preserves in center of each muffin and cover with dab of dough. Bake at 400 degrees 20 minutes. Makes 1 dozen.

ADRIANA PACIFICI’S

TURKEY ROLL

1 whole turkey breast, boned

3 cloves garlic, cut in halves

Salt, pepper

6 slices prosciutto or cooked ham

4 eggs

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Butter or margarine

6 slices mortadella

Fresh rosemary sprigs or dried rosemary leaves

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 cup wine

1 onion, sliced

1 shallot, sliced

Have butcher remove all turkey bones. Butterfly meat to spread out into flat sheet. With sharp knife, make 6 random incisions in breast and place garlic half in each. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Rub in garlic. Cover with layer of prosciutto slices.

Beat eggs with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in parsley. Heat 1 to 2 tablespoons butter in large non-stick skillet placed over medium heat. Pour in eggs and cook to soft, whole round omelet or frittata (do not overcook). Cool slightly. Place omelet over prosciutto.

Top with mortadella slices. Roll breast as tightly as possible, jellyroll fashion, and tie with string all around. If using fresh rosemary, insert sprigs under strings; if using dried, rub turkey roll with dried herb. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Heat olive oil in large Dutch oven or roasting skillet placed over low heat. Add turkey roll and cook to brown evenly, turning occasionally. Increase heat and sprinkle with wine. After about 5 minutes or after wine has evaporated, add 1/3 cup butter, onion and shallot. Reduce heat to low and simmer 1 hour 15 minutes, basting top occasionally.

Let stand about 15 minutes before carving. Cut into thin slices and arrange on serving platter. At time of serving, heat sauce and pour some over slices and pass remainder. Makes 20 to 24 servings.

RED ONION’S GLAZED

CHICKEN WINGS

2 cups rice wine vinegar

2 cups light brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup chili sauce

1 1/2 tablespoons hot pepper sauce

1 1/2 tablespoons liquid smoke

2 dozen chicken wings, or more

Combine rice vinegar, brown sugar and granulated sugar in saucepan. Bring to boil. Continue to boil about 30 minutes until syrup is reduced by 1/3 to consistency of pancake syrup. Add chili sauce and simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Add hot pepper sauce and liquid smoke. Glaze may be stored at cool, dry room temperature or in refrigerator in covered container at this point.

Place chicken wings in baking pan. Pour sauce over wings and bake at 350 degrees 1 hour or until chicken wings are tender. Makes 8 appetizer servings.

Note: For Red Onion method, bake chicken wings at 350 degrees, then brush with with glaze and broil 3 to 5 minutes until glaze is set.