Celestino and Bocca: Hit and Miss

Lots of restaurants are opening as the year comes to a close. The longest-awaited is Bocca, which has been tantalizing people with its large pink presence at 8001 Melrose Ave., (213) 653-3064, since sometime last spring. Celestino, on the other hand, seems to have sprung up almost overnight at 236 S. Beverly Drive, (213) 859-8601.

Despite its long gestation, Bocca, a glitzy restaurant modeled after Spago, still needs time to get its act together. If you simply can’t wait to take a look at the place, my advice is to avoid the soggy pizzas, doughy pasta and salty salads and stick to something simple like mesquite-grilled fish. Personally, I’d wait a while (the place has promise), and in the meantime spend my money at Celestino.

The chef/owner, formerly of Chianti Cucina, has kept the menu simple, but everything I’ve tried has been delightful. Great mussel and clam soup, great seafood salad, all sorts of fine pasta and entrees like roast chicken with potatoes. Prices are reasonable, the modern room is fairly plain but very warm, and there’s an interesting wine list.