More Americans are enjoying great fish dishes at fine restaurants. But now consumers are finding great catches at the market, too. With these tips on buying, storing and cooking this light alternative to meat, you won’t feel like a fish out of water in the kitchen. : HOOK, LINE AND SINKER

Inspired by restaurants serving exotic fish dishes, armed with purchasing power, ample resources and knowledge that, yes, fish is good for you, today’s consumer has “bought” fish hook, line and sinker.

There is a genuine fish-eating explosion nationwide.

And the chances are you will be eating and cooking more fish in 1986.

There has been an 11% increase in fish consumption between 1982 and 1984. According to National Fisheries Institute projections, a rise from 13.6 to 14 pounds per capita is expected to be reported for 1985. In states bordered by waterways, a 20-pound per capita consumption rate is expected. So get ready for some light-bright fish cooking for this new year.

The big news is that fresh fish consumption is growing. Of all stores carrying fish nationwide, 85.5% now are carrying fresh seafood. In fact, fresh seafood accounts for most of the sales in these markets, according to an NFI report.

Up to now, 65% to 75% of fish consumed in America was eaten away from home. But that trend is in reverse. “Americans will be cooking more fish at home from now on,” said Larry Levine, director of education at the California Fisheries Assn.

“One of the problems has been education. Most people don’t know how to handle or cook fish. Up to now, fish has been a cast-aside item in meat counters, where butchers, who are not trained or knowledgeable about fish, could not educate the consumer,” Levine said.

But help is on the way. In a recent push to promote eating fish at home, the California Fisheries Assn. has been issued a government grant to train meat cutters and supermarket fish counter clerks about purchasing, storing and cooking of fish.

There are several reasons for the rise in interest over fish.

Fish has the blessing of health experts as a low-calorie, low-fat, low-cholesterol alternative to higher fat meats. With the exception of some fatty fish (trout and tuna, among others), most fish contain about 100 calories per serving, compared to about 300 calories per serving for most meats.

Most fish, like meat, contains high amounts of vitamins, minerals and important trace minerals. Fish also boasts highly digestive proteins, ideal in the feeding of children and the elderly.

But a social aspect to fish consumption has, in recent years, entered the picture. Fish has been glamorized by a growing number of elite restaurant chefs whose exotic fish cookery has inspired those who can afford the cost of exotic fish to try their hand at fish-cooking at home.

Never before has the marketplace offered the consumer more varieties of fresh fish. Today, a typical market offers more than 70 fresh and frozen fish items, and the number increases. There is a growing trend toward fish boutique shops offering fish flown in daily from ports around the world (see story on Flying Foods, Page 24).

Once the exclusive domain of the restaurant trade, today’s consumer has access to the same exotic fishes at prices not too far off from those paid by the restaurant trade. Fish such as St. Peter’s fillets from the Sea of Galilee, John Dory from New Zealand, langoustine from France, loup de mer from Holland, wild salmon from Ireland, red shrimp from Spain, turbot from Holland and tunatto from Italy are as much available to the consumer as the restaurant, thus chipping away at the power of exclusivity of the restaurant.

The question is, how do you cook fish without botching it up.

Fish is not as easy to handle as beef, which you can toss on the grill from a distance of five feet without fear of destruction.

Fish is delicate, but once you get the handle on its delicate cooking characteristics, fish becomes a quick and easy answer to fast meals when time is precious--and even when it is not.

Firm Vs. Flaky Flesh

Most fish can be baked, broiled, steamed or pan-fried. Some fish are more conducive to certain cooking methods than others because of firm or soft texture quality, or thickness or thinness of the flesh.

In general, and with some exceptions, fish with lean flesh, such as catfish, cod, flounder, grouper, haddock, halibut, perch, sea bass, sea trout, sole and swordfish, have firm flesh, which makes handling them easier than fish with soft, flaky, fatty flesh, such as lake trout, mackerel, sea herring, salmon, shad, tuna and whitefish.

Thin fillets do better when pan-fried or rolled for steaming. Thick cuts of fish can be cubed for kebabs, cut into steaks or fillets to broil, bake, barbecue or steam.

But the first step in fish cooking starts at the fish counter. Here are some tips on buying, storing and cooking from the American Economics Assn. bulletin, “Handbook of Food Preparation.”

How much fish should you purchase per serving?

Figure on three-quarters of a pound per serving for whole fish; half a pound for dressed or pan dressed (scales, entrails, head, tail and fins removed), and one-third pound per serving for fillets or steaks.

How can you tell when fish is fresh or stale? Flesh of very fresh fish is firm and does not separate from the bone. The odor is fresh and mild. In fact, fish taken from the water has no fishy odor. Odor develops with age. The more pronounced the odor, the older the fish. However, odor should not be disagreeable when purchased.

Eyes should be bright, clear and full. Cloudy, protruding eyes are an indication of staleness. Gills should be red and free from slime. Color fades with age from light pink to brownish or greenish.

Skin should be shiny with good color. Most fish have an iridescent appearance. Colors fade and become less pronounced when fish loses freshness.

When purchasing fresh fish fillets, steaks or pieces, look for flesh that has a freshly cut appearance. The flesh should be firm in texture without traces of browning or drying around the edges. Odor should be fresh and mild.

Plan on using fish as soon after purchase as possible to ensure freshness. If you must store it longer than 24 hours, be sure to wrap fillets, steaks or pieces in moisture-proof material, with little or no air space between the fish and the wrapping.

Thawing frozen fish properly is also important. If using frozen fish, allow 24 hours for thawing a one-pound package in the refrigerator. You can also place individual packages in cold water to thaw, allowing one hour or longer per one-pound package. Do not thaw fish at room temperature or in warm water. And do not refreeze thawed fish.

Now for the cooking.

Cooking is done to enhance flavor, soften the small amount of connective tissue present and to make the protein easier to digest. Cooking fish at too high a temperature for a long time toughens and dries out the flesh and destroys flavor. Try to handle fish as little and as gently as possible during cooking and transferring to preserve appearance.

To tell doneness, you will notice that the translucent, wet and watery flesh becomes milky colored with an opaque whitish tint. Fish is completely done when the flesh reaches the opaque stage at the center of the thickest part. The flesh will be easy to separate into flakes when touched with a knife or fork, and if there are bones present, the flesh will come away from the bones.

Baking fish: Fish that is baked cooks by dry heat, so it must be well greased or sauced in order to be palatable. Baste with some melted butter or oil or other liquid during cooking to keep the surface moist. Allow 20 to 25 minutes for two pounds fish fillets or steaks baked at 350 degrees; and 25 to 30 minutes for three pounds pan-dressed fish.

Broiling and charcoal broiling: Broiling also is a dry heat method of cooking, but the direct heat is more intense. Choose fish that is at least one inch thick so it does not fall apart, and keep moist by basting well with butter, oil, fruit juice or a combination of liquids. Broiling generally is done at about three to four inches from the source of heat. The thicker cuts should be placed farther from the heat than thin ones. Broil two pounds of fish fillets or steaks 10 to 15 minutes, turning once; broil three pounds of pan-dressed fish 10 to 16 minutes.

Small Fish or Fillets

Deep-fat frying: Use only very small fish or fillets. Dipping them into batter or breading them helps maintain shape. Place a single layer in a wire frying basket or heat enough oil to float the fish. Do not fill the frying container more than half full. Heat the oil to 350 degrees and fry the fish only until golden brown. Drain the fish on absorbent paper to remove some of the excess fat.

Pan frying: When cooking fish with a small amount of fat in a skillet, some control is needed in handling to keep fish from overcooking or falling apart because of too much handling. Place only a single layer of breaded or floured fish in a hot pan with about one-eighth inch fat in the bottom. Fry until brown on one side, then turn and brown the other side. Cooking time will vary according to thickness. Generally speaking, allow four to five minutes per side.

Oven frying: To oven fry, cut fish into serving portions, coat with milk, then dip in bread crumbs or flour. Place in a shallow, well-greased baking pan and pour a small amount of butter, oil or other liquid over the fish. Oven-fried fish should be baked at extremely hot temperatures (about 500 degrees) for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the coating is golden brown in color.

Poaching: Fish fillets, steaks or whole dressed fish can be poached. Place the fish in a single layer in a shallow, wide pan and barely cover with liquid. The liquid may be anything from broth (fish, meat, chicken or vegetable), milk, wine or water, to name just a few. Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce heat and cover the pan. Simmer over medium-low heat until the fish flakes easily, about five to 10 minutes. The liquid is often thickened or reduced to make a sauce for the fish.

Steaming: Fish fillets, steaks or small whole fish are best for steaming. A steam cooker or a perforated pan or rack is necessary for steaming fish. First, place water in the bottom of a pan and bring to a boil. Then place fish on a rack or other implement over the water, without allowing the water to touch the fish. Cover the pan and steam for about five to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish.

RED SEA FISH FILLETS

4 to 6 fish steaks or 1 to 1 1/2 pounds thick fish fillets

Salt, pepper

Flour

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 small chile, minced (seed removed)

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Juice of 1 lime

Cilantro sprigs

Cut fish into serving portions, if using fillets. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roll lightly in flour. Melt butter with olive oil in large skillet. Add onion, garlic and chile. Saute until onion is tender.

Add fish and chopped cilantro. Cook until fish is golden on both sides, about 7 minutes, turning once. Sprinkle with lime juice. Garnish with cilantro sprigs. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

SESAME TROUT

1 (2 1/2- to 3-pound) whole trout, whitefish, sea bass or perch

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup lemon juice

2 onions, sliced and separated into rings

Sesame Sauce

Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper inside and out. Combine 2 tablespoons olive oil and lemon juice and rub fish inside and out. Cover and marinate at least 1 hour or up to several hours in refrigerator.

Bake at 350 degrees 40 to 50 minutes or until fish flesh is opaque and flakes easily when tested with a fork, basting frequently with pan drippings.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in skillet. Add onions. Saute until onions are golden brown. Top fish with Sesame Sauce. Garnish with browned onion rings. Makes 6 servings.

Sesame Sauce

1 cup sesame seed paste (tahini paste)

3 cloves garlic

Juice of 2 lemons

Salt

Combine sesame seed paste, garlic, lemon juice and salt to taste in blender container. Blend until smooth, adding water, if needed, to make of cream sauce consistency. Makes about 2 cups.

SALMON WITH GARLIC SAUCE

1 to 1 1/2 pounds salmon fillets

Salt, pepper

1/2 cup fish broth or chicken broth

Garlic-Yogurt Sauce

Cut fish fillets into serving portions. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place fish in skillet. Add fish broth. Bring to simmer. Reduce heat, cover and simmer over medium-low heat until fish flakes when touched with knife or fork. Serve with Garlic-Yogurt Sauce.

Note: Fish may be pan-fried.

Garlic-Yogurt Sauce

1 cup plain yogurt

2 to 3 cloves garlic, mashed

1 tablespoon chopped mint, chives or green onion, optional

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Dash olive oil

Salt, pepper

Combine yogurt, garlic, mint, lemon juice, olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Makes 1 cup.

DILLED FISH

4 to 6 small fish steaks or 1 to 1 1/2 pounds fish fillets

Juice of 1 lemon

1/4 cup white wine

2 or 3 sprigs dill or 1 teaspoon dill weed

Salt pepper

Cut fish into serving pieces, if using fillets. Place in large skillet. Add lemon juice, wine, dill and salt and pepper to taste to skillet. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 10 to 12 minutes or until fish is opaque and flakes easily with fork. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

SOLE BAJA

1 to 1 1/2 pounds fish fillets

Salt, pepper

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup tarragon vinegar

1/2 cup dry Sherry

Cut fish into serving portions. Sprinkle fish fillets with salt and pepper. Combine garlic, oil and vinegar in skillet. Heat. Add fish and cook until golden brown on both sides, about 7 to 10 minutes, turning once. Remove fish. Add Sherry to pan juices. Bring to boil. Pour over fish. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

FISH TERIYAKI KEBABS

3/4 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons sugar

3/4 cup sake or dry white wine

1 (1-pound) thick fish fillet

1/2 pound mushrooms

Combine soy sauce, sugar and sake. Cut fish into cubes and place in shallow pan. Pour soy sauce mixture over fish and marinate about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, stem mushrooms, clean and pat dry . Drain fish and thread on skewers alternating with mushrooms. Broil 2 to 3 inches from source of heat 5 to 10 minutes or until fish is opaque and flakes easily when tested with fork. Makes 4 servings.

FISH PICCATA

6 (4- to 6-ounce) fish fillets

Salt, pepper

Flour

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1/2 cup dry white wine

Juice of 2 lemons

1/4 cup chopped parsley

Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper. Roll fish fillets lightly in flour to coat both sides. Melt butter over low heat. Add fish fillets. Saute 5 minutes, turning to brown both sides.

Add wine, half of lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle parsley over fish. Cover and simmer 5 minutes or until fish is opaque and flakes easily when tested with fork. Sprinkle with remaining lemon juice. Makes 6 servings.

FISH CALCUTTA

1 to 1 1/2 pounds fish fillets

1/2 cup chicken broth

1/2 cup dry white wine

Salt, pepper

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1/2 cup half and half

1 teaspoon curry powder

2 tablespoons butter

Toasted coconut

Roll fish fillets, jellyroll fashion, and place in skillet. Add broth, wine and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer over low heat 15 to 20 minutes or until fish becomes opaque and flakes easily when tested with fork. Remove from skillet.

Add half and half to skillet. Bring to boil and simmer over high heat until liquid is reduced by a third. Stir in curry powder until blended. Stir in butter until melted. Pour over fish fillets. Sprinkle with coconut. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

LEMON FISH

4 fish steaks

1/3 cup lemon juice

1 pound mushrooms, sliced

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Lettuce leaves

Place fish steaks in large skillet. Pour lemon juice over steaks and turn to coat well. Cover and marinate 30 minutes.

Add mushrooms, salt, lemon peel and pepper. Cook, covered, over low heat until fish and mushrooms are done, about 7 to 10 minutes.

Pile lettuce leaves lightly over fish. Cover and cook 1 to 2 minutes longer or until color of leaves brightens. Serve fish and mushrooms over parboiled lettuce leaves. Pour sauce remaining in pan over fish. Makes 4 servings.

FISH DIJON

4 to 6 fish fillets

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

3 tablespoons sour cream

2 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon chopped tarragon leaves

Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper to taste. Melt butter in large skillet. Add fish and saute until golden on both sides, turning once. Remove fish and set aside.

Stir sour cream into pan juices until smooth. Stir in mustard and tarragon. Simmer 1 minute just to heat through. Serve sauce with fish. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

SOLE MEUNIERE

1 to 1 1/2 pounds fillets of sole

Salt, pepper

Flour

1/4 cup butter or margarine

2 tablespoons minced parsley

Lemon wedges

Cut fish fillets into serving portions. Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper. Roll lightly in flour. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in skillet. Add fish and cook until golden on both sides, about 7 to 10 minutes, turning once. Remove fish to heated platter.

Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to skillet. Heat until frothy. Pour over fish. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve with lemon wedges. Makes 4 to 6 servings.