The Beautiful, Sophisticated Isle in the Aegean

This Dodecanese island is the most developed, sophisticated, boutique, disco and high-rise laden in all the Aegean, sure to sink slowly beneath its blue waters like the legendary Colossus of Rhodes if another 400-room hotel or a gift shop dares open on its shores.

The reasons for all this development are simple: a 12-month season of mild climate and sunshine; northern Europeans seeking both who come in droves as often and regularly as swallows; Greek and foreign businessmen who decided 30 years ago that here indeed was the isle of their dreams, one to invest in without qualms.

Whatever we care to call ourselves, we’re all tourists. Yet some prefer not to travel in great packs, or congregate on the same spot at the same time for sightseeing or just a quiet cup of coffee. The only way to escape such a fate on Rhodes is by timing your visit for a slower season, early spring, late fall or winter.

It’s worth the effort, since the island is certainly beautiful. It was the Knights of St. John who were responsible for most of the city’s medieval beauty.

Late of an evening it can be as enchanting as any place in the Aegean, soft lights glowing on the grape-arbor terrace of a small taverna.

At a time like this we can look across the water to the entrance of Mandraki Harbor, forget the 20th-Century glitter, and imagine how it was when the Colossus of Rhodes stood guard.

Here to there: TWA and Pan Am get you to Athens with stops; SAS, Alitalia and KLM with changes; American to New York for a change to Olympic Airways’ non-stop. Frequent Olympic Athens-Rhodes flights daily, 45 minutes; a ship from Piraeus, 18-20 hours. And of course the cruise ships call here.

How long/how much? A couple of days for the town, another for a run down to Lindos or one of the beaches along the way. Hotel and dining costs are as low as you could hope for.

A few fast facts: Greece’s drachma was recently valued at .0065, 154 dracs to the dollar. Bus prices in town, to the airport or to any place on the island are chicken feed.

Moderate-cost lodging: Hotel Angela (7 28th October St.; $15-$21 B&B; double, depending upon season) has friendly Poppy at the desk loaded with good advice, cool marble lobby, simple but very neat rooms, all with private balconies. Like many Greek hotels, this one has a small bar in lobby for drinks and snacks. Breakfast room upstairs is bright and cheerful, with its own balcony.

Despo (40 Vassilissis Sophias; $17-$20 B&B;) is in center of city a couple of blocks from harbor, 64 rooms, some with balconies, another pretty lobby with bar, rooftop terrace.

Spartalis (2 N. Plastira; $17-$21 B&B;) has one of best locations in town a block from harbor. Lobby rather stark, rooms plain but some with balconies and good view of harbor, the same for terrace dining area. Pavlidis (15 28th October St.; $13-$17 B&B;) is down a notch in price, but it is just as attractive as a couple above. We really liked the breezy lobby and exceptional friendliness, but call or write ahead as they have their share of tour business.

Regional food and drink: The delicate and paper-thin phyllo dough is used as well by Greeks as anybody, three of the best uses being in spanokopita , bourekakia and bourekakia me kima , spinach pie wrapped or crusted with phyllo , cheese triangles or ground meat given the same treatment.

Melitzanes salata, one of the best dishes of our trip, may be served in a bowl or used for a dip with pita bread. It’s eggplant, bread crumbs, garlic, onion, lemon, pepper and olive oil pureed into a marvelous paste. Pasticcio is a Greek staple, macaroni layered with ground meat, cheese and topped with a bechamel sauce.

Garides me saltsa is a pan of succulent shrimp cooked in tomatoes, feta cheese and a harmony of spices.

Moderate-cost dining: Everybody gets their day off to a start by sitting at one of the cafes beneath the arcades at harbor-front, having a coffee and pastry. Look for an empty table at the Pink Panther, Cafe Rembee or the Astoria. Greek coffee is half the cost of ours, twice as good.

Taverna Alexis in Old Town is charming and popular. Dine under a vine arbor or inside on the finest fresh seafood. It’s one of the best places in town.

Nearby is the Omonia, where we returned to sit under the ficus tree outside and have souvlakia just as good as we remembered. You’ll get by here for fewer dracs than at Alexis, seafood almost as good.

In Old Town is Taverna Sea Star where we saw only Greeks and had the best meal of our trip. They barbecued our octopus and fish right by the table outside, the deep-fried squid and Greek salad of tomatoes, black olives, cucumbers and feta cheese both as good as we can remember. Illios, a white wine of Rhodes, was excellent, and the tab for two was less than $8.

Going first-class: Grand Hotel Astir Palace (Akti Miaouli; $50-$75 double) gets everyone’s nod as the best on island. Right on private beach, gigantic pool, nightclub, tennis courts and, of course, air-conditioned. There’s also a casino here.

Belle Epoque (25th Martiou at Amerikis) sounds French but has delicious Greek food. Try the hirino krassato , a glorified pork stew with white wine, for $2.75. This one is a real charmer in the new part of town, covered patio surrounded by green plants and flowers, an oasis of peaceful quietude.

On your own: Spend plenty of time just walking around Old Town, particularly along the Street of the Knights to soak up the city’s medieval character. The 14th-Century Palace of the Grand Masters was rebuilt in 1939 and, according to some, is a mishmash of styles and furnishings. We think the mosaic floors, brought from Cos, warrant your attention.

Don’t miss a trip down to Lindos for its magnificent acropolis, curved little beach and a tiny basilica with numerous icons. Then try to find time for another short ride to Petaloude, the Valley of Butterflies, for the June-to-September clouds of these beautiful creatures winging down the stream-carved valley.

For more information: Call the Greek National Tourist Organization at (213) 626-6696, or write (611 West 6th St., Los Angeles 90017) for a brochure on the Dodecanese Islands including Rhodes.