Rediscovering Madeira : This Unlucky Island Wine Is Making a Comeback

In the 18th Century, Madeira wine played an important part in American life. It toasted the signing of the Declaration of Independence and saluted George Washington on his inaugural. Its subsequent fall from popularity makes an interesting story.

The first vines on the island of Madeira were planted by Joao Goncalves Zarco, with the blessing of King John I of Portugal, in 1420. Zarco had discovered the island off the coast of Morocco the previous year and named it Madeira--the “wooded isle”--with dreams of starting a small empire.

With soil samples and expectations of harvests to come, Zarco sailed back to Lisbon. Accompanied by his wife and a retinue of farmers bringing seeds, trees and vines, he returned in May, 1420, dropping anchor in an inlet that he named Funchal because of the wild fennel growing everywhere.

Impenetrable woodland presented farming problems. With bold resolution, Zarco set fire to the forests. The soil, already enriched by centuries of leaf mold, was now improved by the addition of potash. Zarco had turned the volcanic soil into the richest vineyard site in the world. He had also rid the island of insects and snakes and altered the humidity and amount of rainfall. In 1455, a Venetian visitor wrote with amazement that the Malvasia vines, which had been imported from Crete, produced more grapes than leaves.

In the centuries after Zarco’s arrival, three more principal grape species were planted: Sercial, from the banks of the Rhine; Boal (called Bual in Portuguese), and Verdelho. Along with the Malvasia, or Malmsey, these produce tastes from dry to sweet, all with a bittersweet pungency.

Why did such wines fall from favor and popular use? In 1852, the island of Madeira was struck by oidium , a ravaging plant fungus peculiar to humid climates. The fungus wiped out almost all the vineyards on the island. A second blow came a few years later with the equally deadly root-louse infection, phylloxera. The two disasters could have meant the end of Madeira wines, but shippers of the wines came to the aid of the farmers, offering financial assistance and a reason to replant on hardy, disease-resistant American rootstock. Nevertheless, production of the wines was severely curtailed, and Prohibition killed off the gentle custom of serving Madeira.

Today, Madeira is re-emerging as a curio among wine lovers. You can find vintage Madeiras from the last century without too much difficulty. These vinhos generosos all have known patient aging in wood. No matter whether it is a dry Sercial--more opulent than sherry as an aperitif--a middle-course Verdelho or a dessert-rich Boal or Malmsey, Madeira is a pleasant surprise to guests--a special compliment .

David Cossart of the house of Cossart Gordon is the sixth generation of his family involved with the wines of Madeira. The firm, in its 240th year, commands an inventory of luscious depth, and the range of Cossart Gordon Madeiras imported by Charles Lefranc has something for everyone, from novice to connoisseur. There’s Viva, light and dry ($9.49); No. 26, dark gold, mellow and full-bodied ($9.49); Rainwater, very pale, dry, one to sample and enjoy ($9.49), and No. 92 Crown Bual, rich and sweet ($12.60).

A few bottles of 1863 Bual were available at a recent tasting but sold out to visiting wine merchants at once. An 1882 Verdelho, still much alive and silken, with piney suggestions, may be found at a few wine merchants, priced at $89 a bottle. A dry Sercial 1910, about $76, might evoke controversy; basically Riesling, it’s unique and aggressive--a curio. But as a Wine of the Week, I’d nominate the spectacularly smooth and rich Duo-Centenary Celebration ($26.50). This Bual blend will make any true wine lover pause for reflection. George Washington would have loved it.