ORANGE COUNTY REPORT: Prego South

The new Prego, (18420 Von Karman Ave., Irvine, (714) 553-1333) was surprisingly busy for an opening night. Or maybe not surprisingly. Half the diners, it seemed, were telling everyone how long they’d waited for an Orange County Prego so they could spare themselves the drive to Beverly Hills.

It was definitely worth their wait; the new place is an architectural stunner, a Tuscan villa in rust and yellow stucco. Unlike the rather clunky and closed-in Beverly Hills Prego, this is a light, airy place with tall windows on three sides and a lot of attractive outdoor seating surrounded by garden and lawn.

Reproducing any menu above the fast-food level is tricky business, but they’ve done it remarkably well. There are the same light, refreshing pizzas, the unusual pastas, the simply treated grilled meats. This looks like a place that can’t miss, a charming villa with remarkably good, reasonably priced food (appetizers $4 to $8, entrees $6 to $15), set among the giant office buildings of the Irvine hub. I foresee heavy competition for the outdoor seating come summer.