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Learning From a Vacation Robbery

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<i> York is an Oakland free-lance writer. </i>

Our experience here convinced us that life really is what happens to you when you are making other plans.

Four of us rented a car at the airport after arrival and drove quickly to the center of old town to do two things: watch the locals do the traditional dance in front of the famous Gothic cathedral and to check into a hotel.

We parked our car a block away, in sight of the Hotel Colon, and for half an hour we enjoyed the dancing. The hotel could accommodate the four of us for the night, so we returned to get our luggage, locked in the trunk.

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Welcome to Barcelona! We no longer had any luggage. Thieves had smashed one window of the car and got into the trunk through the interior of the car. Everything was gone: four tote bags, four suitcases, coats and some magazines.

The police left a note suggesting that we report to Station 49. At the station not a soul spoke English, so we put together the few Spanish words we knew and came out with: “El coche fue limpiado por los ladrones.”

After much head nodding, a policeman escorted us to a little room where my husband’s coat (too large for any Spaniard) and all my magazines were returned to us.

Almost Everything Stolen

By that time we were in a trance and hardly reacted. Just about everything was gone--our carefully planned and coordinated travel wardrobes, makeup, pills, converters, shaving equipment, hair dryers, my address books and many other items that make a trip comfortable. And the new luggage that could even withstand bullets.

We weren’t the only victims. A hysterical Dutch woman came in to sob out a story of three young punks who had made off with her purse containing passport, money, travelers checks and some jewelry. Because my husband, Carl, was trying valiantly to act as interpreter, we heard the story over and over.

At that point we reacted. We hadn’t lost anything of great value. Our passports, money, travelers checks, driving licenses and credit cards were all secure in our money belts. We just didn’t have any clothes and, after the flight, we all would have given a lot for a toothbrush.

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Before the ordeal ended we met other victims of the thieves. Some had purses snatched, one was held at knife-point as he crossed a park at midnight, and a threesome had been assaulted as they carried luggage from the train station to a hotel. And most had lost everything.

We checked into the hotel sans luggage and told our story to every clerk in sight. “Tan triste” (so sad), they exclaimed, and added that it happens all the time.

Careful Strategies

That uncomfortable news put us on the alert and we made some basic decisions. We would not carry purses at all, would stay out of charming, inviting little alleyways and would take taxis at night. We also would put passports, money and the tiny amount of jewelry we brought into the safety deposit box at the hotel.

When you are used to carrying a purse it is difficult to give it up. My solution was quite rudimentary. I added a second money belt to carry the items I could not afford to lose, like my contact lenses. The thieves got the first pair. I wasn’t going to give them the last.

I stuck a lipstick and comb into my jacket pocket, carried a credit card and travelers checks in my original money belt, and felt safe enough to tackle Barcelona again.

After we reported the theft to the U.S. Consulate and the police we had another hassle to endure: replacing some clothing so we could dress adequately on the 15-day trip. Instead of touring Barcelona we toured El Corte Ingles, the local Macy’s, and it was the longest tour of the trip.

I hate to shop, but shopping in a foreign country, where sizes are different and you aren’t very good at the language, gives shopping a new twist.

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It took us all day to buy one outfit, a change of underwear, an extra pair of shoes and some basics, such as shampoo, cream, deodorant and toothpaste. It wasn’t much fun, but the expedition did have a funny side.

Undergarment Pantomimes

We couldn’t figure out bra sizes so we pantomimed our way to a fine purchase. Then came underpants. They looked big enough for a 10-year-old, but by the time the saleslady stretched them out, they appeared fit for a giant. We took a few.

Eventually we found a clerk who was willing to let us stumble around in Spanish and had some success. However, clothes were expensive and the selection somewhat limited.

I spent more than $500 just to add a skirt, two blouses, one pair of slacks, one sweater, one pair of shoes, underwear and a limited supply of makeup.

Our homeowner’s insurance policy covers replacement costs for everything that was stolen, and while that is nice, it would take time at home just to put the list together. They want the police report and the replacement cost for everything we lost, which would mean calls to many stores.

Each of us added another outfit or two and that’s what we wore. From now on we will never take more than three outfits on any vacation. We tired of the clothes, but found that there were advantages to a limited wardrobe. We had practically nothing to worry about; we certainly didn’t have much wash, and we could carry everything in a single suitcase.

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When we checked out of the Hotel Colon we looked as if we were part of a bag-lady convention. Six plastic bags held our belongings and the bellhop, who had forgotten our dilemma, offered to get our luggage.

It Can Happen to Anyone

As victims we went through a whole range of feelings, from disbelief that we had been robbed to relief that we had not been assaulted or had lost passports and money. We were damned angry at the thieves and felt a sense of frustration because we had been very careful. But not careful enough. And even though we knew robberies in Spain were a common occurrence, we never expected anything to happen to us. No one ever does.

Carl and I finally gave up plastic bags and bought a cheap suitcase in Cullera, the lovely beach resort we visited for nearly 10 days. The bag held everything, so we carried it onto the plane and went through customs in five minutes. The customs representative asked where our baggage was and we didn’t tell him the story; we acted as if we always traveled lightly.

What did we learn from the experience?

--Never to assume anything. Daylight does not mean safety.

--How to exist without carrying a purse.

--That you are most vulnerable to mishaps after long trips, when fatigue dulls judgment.

--How quickly you shift priorities when you have to. Contact lenses went to the top of the list, followed by toothpaste, toothbrush and shampoo.

--How grateful you are for simple things, such as the walking shoes that were on our feet when we were robbed.

--That time I took my address book with a 15-year accumulation of addresses. Next time: mailing labels.

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--Keeping a list, at home, of everything we took with us simplified insurance claims.

--How very little you need to carry on a trip.

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