SURF’S UP : Calling All Beach Boys: : The Sport That Made Southern California Famous Is Available to Everyone

No sport is more closely associated with Southern California than surfing, and yet, the very legends that have identified the sport with this region have also discouraged residents--new and old--from participating.

The most common excuses are:

--The locals will chase us away.

--You have to live close to the beach to surf.

--I’m too old.

--I’ll look like a jerk.

But those in the know, those with years of surfing experience, say the sport actually is one of the most accessible and affordable activities around.

When faced with the common excuses they answer:

--No they won’t.

--No you don’t.

--No you’re not.

--Yes, you will look like a jerk . . . at first.

For many people the big drawback in surfing is localism. That is, the fear that those who inhabit and use the beach the most will be hostile to anyone invading their turf--and surf.

Chauvinism concerning the ocean is nothing new. Herman Melville, in “Moby Dick,” wrote about sailors scoffing at those tied to dry land.

”. . . Landsmen; of weekdays tent up in lath and plaster. . . They must get just as nigh the water as they possibly can without falling in. And there they stand. Inlanders all . . . “

If that seems a little wind-aided, how about this explanation from rock ‘n’ roll’s Surf Punks.

“My beach, my waves . . . go home.”

But for all the reputed bravado, those most closely associated say it’s just not true.

“I’ve always heard about that ‘locals only’ stuff,” said Robert August, who operates a popular surf shop in Huntington Beach. “But in all my years involved in surfing, I’ve never seen it.”

August admits tempers can flare when a beginner, unaware of the sport’s etiquette, upsets the flow of advanced surfers in an advanced area. He says common sense should be used.

Thus, when starting out, you should stick to areas that are less crowded and demanding. There are plenty of them in Orange County.

From Seal to Laguna, experts say the miles of beaches offer expansive opportunities to learn and develop.

“If you live in Southern California, you’re never really too far from the beaches,” said surfer Brian Frawley of Anaheim.

In a sampling of county surf shops, Bolsa Chica most often was mentioned as a good place to start surfing. Also recommended were any state beaches, Seal Beach and Huntington Beach-- away from the pier.

Now that you know where to go, what do you do once you get there?

First, you should feel comfortable in the water.

“You don’t have to be an Olympic swimmer,” said Carl Hayward, operator of another popular Huntington Beach surf shop. “But, you should be confident enough that if a problem arises in the water, you can handle it.”

Ideally, you should start with an experienced friend. But make a visit to an area surf shop, and most likely you will find someone willing to help you. The point is, never go alone.

So you have some uncrowded water, decent water skills and a buddy by your side. Visions of standing tall in the midst of a wave dance in your head.

Great. Now clear your head and get on your belly.

“I think the best way for someone to start is to Boogie board,” August said. “It teaches the person about the nature of waves. How they swell and break. They can get their first feel of what it’s like to ride a wave without endangering themselves or anyone else.”

Boogie boards, a brand of bodyboards, are soft, half-surfboards that are ridden with a person’s chest on the board, using similar techniques as in surfing.

Body surfing is also a suggestion, but riding a bodyboard may be less hazardous.

Another suggestion is to observe the ocean. When you’re at the beach, watch other surfers and the waves they ride. Watch how the waves break and the direction in which they break.

“Every wave is different, that’s part of the lure of surfing,” Hayward said. “But from watching wave after wave, you start to notice tendencies, things that will probably happen.”

You can buy a good used surfboard for about $100-$150. (A new board costs about $300). Since it’s summer and the water is warm, you probably won’t need a full wet suit and will be able to keep warm with just a vest--about $30-$50.

So you watched, boogied and now bought. Here come those grandiose visions again.

Wonderful. Now back on your belly.

“People think they’re just going to appear out in the water like magic,” said Dave Wainer, a surfer in Huntington Beach. “Paddling out is one of the hardest things to learn and do.”

Paddling requires a great deal of upper-body strength because your arms will be the only part of your body propelling you out. Push-ups and some weightlifting can help.

Once you’ve made it past the breakers and are ready to take your first wave, you’ll discover that the motion of lifting from a flat position to a standing one--which looks so effortless when done by experts--feels like you are lifting a thousand pounds.

Hayward has taught pupils an exercise to strengthen the necessary muscles.

Back on your belly. This time, wherever you can. Press the palms of your hands to the ground as if doing a push-up. But as you press up, swing your hips and legs under you and gently onto the ground.

“You’ll find you’re using different muscles,” Hayward said. “There’s no substitute for doing it in the water, but this will help to strengthen those muscles.”

Now that you know all this, realize that you will look very silly when you try to practice.

“Everyone looks stupid when they start,” August said. “I did; everyone does. It’s one of the more difficult skills to pick up. So much balance, coordination and timing is required.”

So is the ability to laugh at yourself.

“You should try surfing, first because it’s fun,” Haward said. “The falling down and such is all part of the fun.”

Which surfing apparently is, judging from its addictive effects.

“I know guys who will get up at any hour to surf,” Frawley said. “It’s like the old men who play golf. They just have to have it.”

SEAL BEACH

Ray Bay--A steam power plant nearby provides this spot with some of the warmest water along the coast. Best at low or medium tide. Attracts big crowds and a wide variety of surfers.

Seal Beach Pier--At the end of Main Street, the pier and surrounding area offers mostly shore break in the summer but some occasionally big winter surf. The south side can produce hollow lefts during good, south swells.

HUNTINGTON BEACH

Bolsa Chica--The waves here are slow-rolling and comparatively uncrowded, making this an excellent spot for beginners. A favorite among longboarders in the ‘60s, when it was referred to as “Tin Can Beach.”

The Cliffs--The area extending from the southern end of Bolsa Chica to Goldenwest Street. A consistent beach break that many Huntington Beach surfers migrate to in the summer to escape the crowds and blackballs to the south.

Huntington Beach Pier--Storied landmark of “Surf City, USA,” and one of the world’s true surfing meccas. The north and south sides offer consistent peaks, but the north side has less city-imposed restrictions on surfing. Intense competition for waves among the locals. No place for beginners.

NEWPORT BEACH

Santa Ana River jetty--The sand bar at the mouth of the river creates fast-breaking, quality surf with occasional tubes. Particularly good during summer. Holds swells from all directions.

56th Street jetty--One of the county’s premier big-wave spots. Wave quality depends on shifting sand bottom but is considered ridable year-round.

Newport Pier--A popular beach break, particularly on large, winter swells. Low tides produce more desirable, hollow conditions.

The Point--Located at the end of 18th Street, this spot has produced big surf that has been compared to that of Banzai Pipeline on the north shore of Oahu. Big waves usually hit during large, south swells.

LAGUNA BEACH Brooks Street--A reef break that’s at its best during a south swell. One of few public access breaks along the exclusive Laguna shoreline.

LAGUNA NIGUEL

Salt Creek--Where kids from the Saddleback Valley go to surf. A point break that produces on south, southwest and west swells. Overlooked by the ritzy Ritz Carlton resort.

DANA POINT

Doheny--Known as “Killer Dana” until the late ‘60s, when the development of the Dana Point marina blocked out the big surf. Still ridable on a big, south swell.

SAN CLEMENTE T Street--A popular spot with the locals that is more accessible than some of its neighbors to the south. Named after nearby Trafalgar Lane but located at the foot of Esplanade.

Cotton’s Point--Located near the San Diego County line and in front of once was once known as Richard Nixon’s Western White House. That location made for some interesting stories of surfers evading Secret Service agents and military personnel to get waves during the ‘70s. Breaks best during southwest swells of the summer.

Trestles--Considered one of California’s best point breaks. Consistent waves with good shape year-round. Named after a train trestle in front of the break, this spot is one of the county’s wilderness surfing experiences. Reached via a long hike down a bike path off of Cristianitos Road. Despite the inconvenience, it’s still one of the county’s most heavily surfed breaks.

The Church--Usually not as big as Trestles, but still a quality point break, especially during west swells. Popular spot with the inhabitants of the nearby marine base.

SAN ONOFRE Surfing Beach--Located near the San Onofre Nuclear Generating Station, this spot is particularly popular with older surfers and longboarders. South and southwest swells usually produce best conditions. Heavily crowded on summer weekends.