Good-Natured Side of Santa Susanas Lies on North Face

The Santa Susana Mountains rise above Chatsworth, Northridge and Granada Hills to form the highest part of the rim of the San Fernando Valley.

But as mountains go, they’re usually not much to look at.

By the end of spring, the grass covering the southern slope has gone to seed and lies withering in the sun. From the Valley floor, the mountains look arid and desolate.

There’s a much different landscape, however, on the other side of the Santa Susanas--the side that most Valley residents never see.

Thriving Woodland

Although the northern slope won’t be mistaken for Oregon, it supports a dense woodland, full of bird and animal life.

There are groves of the large and venerable valley oaks, the trees that have been bulldozed out of existence in much of Southern California, along with other varieties of oaks, myrtle wood, black walnut and big-leaf maple. There are thick stands of big-cone spruce--southern cousins of the Douglas fir--in the canyons and draws that fall away from the ridge.

“This is a very worthy forest,” said Don Mullally, “unusually lush and rich in species.”

The Granada Hills resident and former biology teacher has a special affection for the privately owned area and thinks that the state should try to buy it for a park.

Mullally, 57, is a senior gardener with the city Department of Recreation and Parks and manager of its Bee Canyon and O’Melveny parks on the eastern flank of the mountains. He cited several reasons why the northern side supports a thriving woodland.

The northern slope is spared part of the broiling heat of the southern exposures. Temperatures near the top are several degrees cooler on average than on the Valley floor more than 2,000 feet below. There also is a good deal more rain each year, and even occasional light snowfalls near the summits.

Moreover, Mullally said, the Santa Susanas are made up of sedimentary rock that forms a deep layer of moisture-retaining soils, which are good for growing trees. “We practically have a valley soil, which is right on top of mountains here,” Mullally said.

Animal and Bird Life

There are deer, coyotes and bobcats there, and mountain-lion sightings have been reported in recent years.

None of these critters were encountered on a recent visit to the area, but prairie falcons, red-tailed hawks and a turkey vulture glided overhead, while smaller birds, like the blue scrub jay, darted through the brush.

A pair of acorn woodpeckers chattered in the treetops near a giant, dying valley oak, which looked as if it had been peppered with buckshot.

This was the work of these resourceful birds, which use dead tree trunks for food storage, pecking holes and stowing acorns inside. Authorities disagree on whether the birds store the acorns for the acorn meat, or to trap the worms that invade the acorns. Mullally thinks that they’re after worms. “They raise their own food,” he explained.

Natural Panorama

Apart from the interesting woodlands, the ridge between the summits of Oat Mountain (elevation, 3,747 feet) and Mission Peak offers sweeping views in all directions.

The Simi Hills and Simi Valley can be seen to the west, while the Santa Clarita Valley spreads out to the north. The Los Angeles Reservoir is prominent to the east, where the granite crests of the San Gabriels stretch into a mantle of smog and haze.

During the recent visit, Mt. Hollywood loomed to the southeast, and the skyline of downtown Los Angeles was faintly visible. To the south, the view took in the crests of the Santa Monica Mountains and Catalina Island beyond, although the ocean between them was concealed in mist.

The ridge line is privately owned and is leased for grazing cattle, oil production and communication towers. Although trails from O’Melveny Park rise up the flanks of Mission Peak, the higher ground is not open to the public. A road runs east to west along the ridge but is accessible only to oil workers and ranchers who have keys to the gates.

The area is not under immediate threat of development, and the high, steep land--riddled with earthquake faults--discourages building. But this has not deterred development in other parts of Los Angeles, Mullally noted, pressing the argument for a public park.

“I’m throwing out a challenge,” he said.

“Find another place that has so many . . . beautiful oaks and spruce,” he added, with “beautiful views in the four directions of the compass, but still only 30 minutes’ drive from the city below.”