Starting Early on Plans for Holiday Parties

Have the Christmas lights flicked on in your head yet? “Dimly?” Well, sooner or later, with or without you, the music will begin. You will start thinking about the parties to do, the people to invite, the food, the flowers, the candles, the caterers to call. This column deals with some pertinent questions about holiday entertaining that begins (let’s be realistic) in October with Halloween.

Question: How do I find a caterer who will reflect my style? Are the Yellow Pages good enough?

Answer: Not unless the name rings a bell. Some of the best caterers in town agree that the best way to find a caterer is through personal contact. If you haven’t experienced a caterer’s work personally, ask your friends whose style and flair you admire to recommend someone they have used. Interview several caterers before you decide on the one you use. Be sure, also, to request references of any caterer you consider, and follow up as many as you can.

Q: What does holding a party on a “dark night” mean?

A: It means that you can save yourself a lot a money by holding a party at a restaurant on a night when the restaurant is closed (that’s the “dark night”), versus catering a party at home. According to Milton Williams, a premier caterer in the Los Angeles area and author of a book on entertaining, rentals can add a large amount of money to a party bill. “You’re better off putting the money on the food,” says Williams. By the way, most restaurants will insist on serving their own food and beverages and staffing the party. If that’s a problem, you may have to do a bit of scouting for a place that will accept an outside caterer. Don’t overlook ethnic restaurants as a dark-night source. They generally are less costly, more flexible and possibly even more fun.

Q: Is there a rule of thumb for anticipating cost of a catering service?

A: Sure is. A rule of thumb in figuring cost of the party by a caterer is to double the amount of the actual cost of the menu. If the dishes in the menu total $12.50 per person, the catering cost will probably be $22 to $25 per person. This is how it works: Let’s say you are having 25 people at a Champagne and cake reception. You will need at least six bottles of Champagne at, say, $9.95 per bottle (each bottle will serve 4 to 6 persons) and a two-tiered 10-inch cake at a cost of, say, $75, totaling $135, which, divided by 25 comes to about $5 per person. You will double the amount to arrive at the caterer’s price. If the cost of the Champagne and cake is higher, the caterer’s charge will be higher, too. However, don’t expect a bargain when you ask a caterer to service a party, warns Los Angeles caterer Carl Bendix of Ambrosia Epicurean. “After all, the caterer is bringing the restaurant to you. He is charging you overhead.”

Q: This is a touchy question. What shall I do about the cigarette smokers at my party. Frankly I would prefer to forbid smoking at the table, but do I have a right to do so?

A: Touchy, indeed. Smoking is still a controversial topic when it comes to group dining, and I’m not sure the problem will ever be solved. Clive David, a top-level party planner in New York and Los Angeles made this suggestion, and perhaps it will help you make up your mind: “I would say cigarettes should not be put on the table. The smokers can wait until the dessert course to smoke.” Adding to Clive’s suggestion, you might want to quietly announce to the smokers the conditions expected before seating them.

GOOD IDEA-- A splendid do-it-yourself supper idea we encountered at a party catered by Paul Onishi: Chinese tacos (lettuce filled with seasoned ground chicken, pork or beef, topped with bottled plum sauce). Guests made their own tacos and ate them out of hand with aid of a napkin. This saved on cleanup, Onishi claimed.