Underrated Loire Valley Wines Offer Heady Bargains for Consumers : These Reds Lack Popularity, but Offer Charm, Delicacy

The red wines of the Loire Valley have long unjustly suffered from a bum rap. Bad-mouthed by prejudiced Bordeaux and Burgundy wine authorities as lackluster, light-structured and short-lived, it is no wonder the wines have never attained their deserved popularity. This unfortunate situation for Loire vintners, however, has become a plus for consumers who can currently buy these wines of beguiling charm and subtle delicacy for reasonable prices at less than $10.

The best come from near the town of Touraine from the vineyard regions and villages of Chinon, Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil and Anjou. Made principally from the Cabernet Franc grape, also known in the Loire as the Breton, the wines generally offer fine varietal fruit and a zesty spiced taste without oppressive tannin producing astringency. They are excellent table mates for veal, chicken and beef and even for Touraine’s prized wild game dishes. Some wineries incorporate Cabernet Sauvignon grapes into the blend to add punch and durability.

Easy to Drink

Because of the lightness and early charm of concentrated fruit intensity, do not confuse these wines with Beaujolais, the styles are decidedly distinct. Loire reds are racier and leaner with aromas that are described by local vintners as violet for Chinon wines and raspberry for Bourgueil. Frankly, I could not always perceive the difference but I found as much pleasure in the aromas as in the taste.

The wines are exceptionally easy to drink. They seldom show harsh edges and consumers who shy away from reds in general should find them pleasing even with a hamburger. Long-term cellaring is not necessary and indeed the long, soft, supple flavors so typical of the style are meant for early drinking. Some authorities suggest five to six years of age to develop all of the depth and complexity, but frankly the pleasure and even the nuances seem to be available soon after bottling.

An arch advocate of Loire reds was Francois Rabelais, the noted 16th-Century satirist and gourmand and native son of Chinon, who frequently sang the praises of these wines.

Andre Simon, the late founder of the International Wine and Food Society and esteemed wine author, not only liked the wines but also was able to distinguish them. He said, “Bourgueil reds have an obvious family likeness to those of Chinon across the Loire, but they are generally more masculine, that is a rather bigger frame and more assertive, . . . their bouquet is more reminiscent of the raspberry than the violet.” It is difficult to say which is better, but in France Bourgueil is better known, maybe even more favored, because of its greater production.

A delightful wine and one that is sold in the United States, Bourgueil Audebert, “Cuvee du Centenare, Liberte” is typical of the agreeable style and a delight to drink. Made by Jean Claude Audebert, it uses Cabernet Franc grapes entirely, displaying a light, lean, peppery taste with a light bubbly touch of petillance for added zest.

According to Audebert, the vintage of 1985 qualifies as excellent and occurs only once in 10 years. Interestingly, the bottle carries a stamped and serigraphed label featuring a likeness of the Statue of Liberty and for its restoration he donated 1.5 francs for each bottle sold. This is an excellent example of a fine Bourgueil and at $6 it is a good value.

Worthy of Long-Term Cellaring

For contrast, Audebert offered a 1976 Bourgueil with the vineyard designation of Domaine du Gran Clos. It showed an obvious violet nose, a thicker body with lovely developed seductively generous Cabernet Franc flavors, all of which belie the myth that Loire reds do not age and develop complexities. While all Loire reds cannot be aged with complexity as a goal, there are many like this bottle that are worthy of longer term cellaring.

Besides reds, Chinon produces whites made from the Chenin Blanc grape. Generally these whites are not as favored as the reds, but one is especially deserving. I tasted it at Chateau de Marcay near Chinon, a beautifully appointed 15th-Century chateau now functioning as a hotel. Chenin Blanc, 1984, Olga Raffault, is a must buy, for here is a rich 100% Chenin Blanc, somewhat austere yet with lovely nuances that come across in a style suggesting a blend of Vouvray and Chablis. Its earthy finish is an easy companion for most white wine foods and was perhaps the best white I sampled. A superbly made wine, but alas, in small production.

Anjou reds are also wines of considerable note. I was invited to participate, as a judge, at a competition at a local school in Brissac-Quince featuring Anjou reds at 1983 and 1985. At this professionally conducted competition I tasted approximately 50 different wines of which many were in the prize winning category. A goodly number were showing elegant aromas, deep intensity of color, and fine concentration of flavor, and not a few had the structure and power of good lean, light style claret. Both vintages are worthy of pursuit especially for charm, with some wines showing an ability to age. As everyday decent red wines they are surely a match for most other French reds and deserving of a place on the table and in the cellar. Try the Anjou reds of Papin, 1983, Domaine de Dittiere, 1983, and Jean Renou, 1985.

Stronger in Structure

Rose and red wine lovers will enjoy the many wines to be found under the appellation Cabernet d’Anjou that is generally made from Cabernet Franc and comes across stronger in structure than most roses made here and abroad. An excellent prototype is made at Chateau de Cheman, a small winery near Anjou at Blaison that dates back to the 14th Century. This is an exceptionally beautiful region, typical of the area and generally producing Anjou reds of style and quality and with the capacity for longer aging.

A tasting of Chateau de Cheman Cabernet d’Anjou 1980, 1981 and 1983 displayed excellent Cabernet Franc spiced aromas and fresh, clean, distinctive, lively tastes. Not powerful wines, they show extraordinary depth of flavor but with the thinness of the body of roses, though it may be inaccurate to describe them as roses.

The ’85 Cheman made from one-third Cabernet Sauvignon and two-thirds Cabernet Franc was easily the best of the bunch with more complexity in nose and taste and a fuller, rounder concentrated taste. For the type, this is a big wine in a good year and should develop much like a Claret allowing for longer term aging.

To prove the point of durability and survivability of the wines, the winery showed a 1964 (considered a great year) that sported a superb violet like nose together with flavor and depth that suggested claret. Though light is structure this was a round and rich noble wine characteristic of the best of Anjou reds. Equally interesting is Cheman’s Rose d’Anjou, 1962, which I tasted again after a 10 year hiatus. Not showing any maderized character the wine’s fruit was amazingly still intact with refinement and charm.

Regretfully many fine Loire reds are not shipped to the United States; not because they cannot make the journey but because demand for them is not strong. If Americans became more interested, as indeed they should, not only will they find harmonious and appealing softer-styled reds, but they will add yet another dimension of taste to the wide spectrum of world’s wines. It is not likely Loire reds will ever replace Bordeaux and Burgundy wines yet their easy style is worthy of more praise than criticism.