Feliz Navidad

El Mercado, the assemblage of Mexican shops, groceries and restaurants on East First Street, is decked with signs of the season. In the parking lot the other day, a painter was brightening the pink dress of the Virgin of Guadalupe, whose portrait graces a back wall. The Virgin is La Patrona de Mexico--the patron saint of Mexico--and is honored at a little shrine inside the market.

Closely linked to the holidays because her day of tribute is Dec. 12, the Virgin of Guadalupe is a popular image for Christmas and New Year cards. Many of these are on sale at El Mercado. One of the musical cards presents a rather startling linkage of Christmas song with religious devotion. When the card is opened, red lights flash in the Virgin’s crown and at her neck to the tune of “Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer.”

A more sedate offering is a leaflet titled “Antigua Novena Para Posadas” containing the Christmas devotion that centers around the posadas observance. The cover of the leaflet shows Joseph leading Mary on a donkey as they search for shelter for the impending birth. It is this search that is re-created by the Mexican posadas celebration.

Christmas decorations on sale at the market include straw wreaths from Mexico that are banded with red and green, reflecting the Mexican national colors as well as those of the season. And of course there are pinatas to break for a shower of candies at posadas festivities. A bakery counter displays green sugar-sprinkled Christmas trees along with its campechanas, cuernos and other traditional pan dulce. And a shelf in the produce section of the market is lined with huge pots appropriate for steaming Christmas tamales.

Food is a major aspect of Mexican Christmas fiestas. Since tamales are obligatory, markets are stocked right now with such requirements as pork, corn husks and lard. Making tamales from scratch may be too great a challenge for the inexperienced, so a casserole version has been substituted in the following Mexican Christmas menu.

The other main dish is a festive version of Picadillo (Spiced Ground Beef) that is sweetened with raisins soaked in coffee liqueur. In this menu, the Picadillo is spooned over or alongside Mexican rice. But it could also be presented as taco filling, rolled in enchiladas, spooned onto nachos or placed on a tostada.

Bean soup topped with sour cream and cilantro starts the dinner. There is guacamole, too, and, for dessert, crepes filled with meringue and sprinkled with coconut. The beverage is Sangria, sparked with a dash of brandy.

For a non-alcoholic drink, it would be interesting to serve jamaica. This brilliant red drink is made by soaking dried jamaica flowers in water until they release their color, then straining the water and adding sugar. Jamaica flowers are available in most Mexican markets, and El Mercado also has large bottles of jamaica concentrate for an instant version of the drink that requires only the addition of water.

MEXICAN CHRISTMAS BUFFET

Sopa de Frijoles

Tamal de Cazuela

Picadillo

Ensalada de Nochebuena

Arroz a la Mexicana

Guacamole

Crepas Duquesas

Sangria SOPA DE FRIJOLES (Bean Soup)

1 cup finely chopped cooked ham

1/4 cup finely chopped onion

1/4 cup bacon drippings

2 (1-pound) cans stewed tomatoes

2/3 cup Mexican coffee liqueur

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 (15-ounce) cans pinto beans

1 cup beef broth

Sour cream

Finely chopped cilantro

Lemon or lime wedges

Bottled salsa picante, optional

Cook ham and onion in bacon drippings in 3-quart saucepan until onion is tender but not browned. Add tomatoes, chopping any large pieces. Simmer 5 minutes.

Stir in liqueur blended with brown sugar and vinegar. Drain beans and reserve liquid. Coarsely mash beans and add to saucepan with bean liquid and broth. Simmer 10 minutes or until heated through and flavors are blended.

Serve in small bowls. Top each with spoonful of sour cream. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve with a lemon wedge. Accompany with salsa picante to add as desired. Makes 8 servings. TAMAL DE CAZUELA (Tamale Casserole)

1 pound ground beef

1 onion, chopped

2 tablespoons oil

1 (1-pound 13-ounce) can whole tomatoes

1 (10-ounce) can enchilada sauce

1/2 cup pitted black olives

1 (8-ounce) can whole kernel corn, drained

1 teaspoon oregano, crumbled

Salt

1 cup cornmeal

1/2 cup water

1/2 pound Cheddar cheese, shredded

Cook beef and onion in oil in large saucepan until meat is no longer pink, stirring to keep crumbly. Add tomatoes, enchilada sauce, olives, corn and oregano and season to taste with salt. Cover and simmer 10 minutes.

Turn mixture into 2 1/2-quart baking dish. Combine cornmeal, water and season to taste with salt. Spoon over meat mixture. Bake at 325 degrees 50 minutes. Sprinkle cheese over top and bake 10 minutes longer. Makes 6 to 8 servings. PICADILLO (Spiced Ground Beef)

1/2 cup raisins, finely chopped

1/2 cup Mexican coffee liqueur

2/3 cup finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons oil

1 cup canned green chiles, finely chopped

1/4 cup vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 pounds ground beef chuck

2 (16-ounce) cans whole tomatoes, chopped

1 cup pine nuts or slivered almonds

Combine raisins with 6 tablespoons liqueur and let stand while preparing remaining ingredients.

Saute onion in oil in large non-stick skillet until transparent but not browned. Add green chiles, 2 tablespoons vinegar, salt and pepper and mix. Add raisin mixture and beef and mix thoroughly. Cook over medium-high heat until meat is lightly browned, stirring to keep crumbly.

Add tomatoes, remaining liqueur and remaining vinegar. Simmer until thickened, about 20 minutes. Stir in nuts. Makes about 6 1/2 cups or 8 to 10 servings. ENSALADA DE NOCHEBUENA

(Mexican Christmas Salad)

2 (1-pound) cans sliced beets, drained

1 1/2 cups fresh or canned pineapple wedges

2 apples, peeled and sliced

4 oranges, peeled and sectioned

2 small bananas, sliced

1/2 to 2/3 cup bottled or homemade oil and vinegar-style French dressing

Sugar

Romaine or other lettuce

1 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped

2 carrots, cut into fine strips

Combine beets, pineapple, apples, oranges and bananas in large bowl. Blend dressing with enough sugar to sweeten slightly. Toss fruit with dressing. Place in lettuce-lined salad bowl. Garnish with nuts and carrots. Makes 8 to 12 servings. ARROZ A LA MEXICANA (Mexican Rice)

1 clove garlic

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

5 tablespoons oil

1 1/2 cups long grain rice

1/4 cup chopped onion

1/2 cup chopped tomato

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

3 cups chicken or pork stock

1/3 cup frozen peas

Mash garlic in salt. Set aside. Heat oil in heavy Dutch oven until very hot. Add rice and brown slightly, stirring constantly. Add garlic, onion, tomato, cumin, chicken stock and peas. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low. Cover and cook 45 minutes or until rice is tender and dry. Makes 8 servings. GUACAMOLE

2 avocados

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 medium tomato, finely chopped

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

Peel avocados, place in bowl and mash coarsely. Stir in lemon juice, then tomato, onion, salt and hot pepper sauce. Chill. Makes 2 cups. CREPAS DUQUESAS (Duchess Crepes)

16 baked Crepes

Duquesa Sauce

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup Mexican coffee liqueur

1/4 cup water

1 teaspoon light corn syrup

2 egg whites

Flaked coconut

Prepare Crepes and Duquesa Sauce and set aside.

Combine sugar, liqueur, water and corn syrup in small saucepan. Heat to boiling, stirring until sugar dissolves. Cover and boil slowly 3 or 4 minutes. Uncover and boil to 242 degrees on candy thermometer or until mixture spins 8-inch thread when dropped from tip of spoon.

Meanwhile, with electric mixer, beat egg whites to soft peaks. When syrup reaches 242 degrees, pour slowly into egg whites, beating constantly at high speed. Continue beating until egg whites are very thick and hold stiff peaks.

Spread rounded tablespoon egg white mixture on each crepe and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon coconut. Roll up and place on lightly buttered baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees until warm, about 10 minutes. Place 2 crepes on each plate. Spoon 1 tablespoon sauce over each crepe and top with coconut. Makes 8 servings. Crepes

3 eggs

1 cup milk

3/4 cup sifted flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons melted butter

Beat together eggs, milk, flour and salt until mixture is smooth. Stir in melted butter. Cover and let stand 1 hour.

Heat non-stick skillet with bottom diameter of 6 inches. Brush lightly with butter. Add 2 tablespoons batter and tilt pan quickly to spread. Cook over moderate heat until lightly browned. Turn and brown second side. Turn out and repeat until all batter is used. Makes 16 crepes. Duquesa Sauce

1/4 cup brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup water

1/3 cup Mexican coffee liqueur

2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon brandy

Combine brown sugar, water, liqueur and cornstarch in small saucepan. Bring to boil, stirring. Simmer 2 minutes. Add butter and stir until butter melts. Remove from heat and stir in brandy. Makes 1 cup. SANGRIA

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

1 (1 1/2-liter) bottle red wine

Juice of 2 oranges

1/4 cup brandy

2 limes, sliced

1 lemon, sliced

1 cup club soda

Combine sugar and water in saucepan. Bring to boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Boil until syrup is slightly reduced. Cool. In punch bowl, combine syrup, wine, orange juice, brandy, lime and lemon slices. Just before serving, add club soda and ice cubes. Makes 8 to 10 servings.