Indian Fare . . . With a Tuxedo Flair

Restaurant madness is creeping ever eastward along Melrose as what was once a sleepy little street becomes a cosmopolitan center. The avenue, which boasts a potpourri of Italian, Thai, French, American, Mexican, Chinese and Japanese restaurants, has now added yet another international flavor to the stew. The first Indian restaurant, Anarkali, has just opened at 7013 Melrose, near La Brea Avenue; the phone number is (213) 934-6488.

Small Indian restaurants are springing up all over town; unfortunately, most of their menus are interchangeable. From the vast repertoire of the Indian kitchen it is a shame that so few restaurants venture beyond the same safe dishes. Anarkali is no exception: The menu boasts a few tandoori dishes, a couple of curries, a vindaloo or two. Among the vegetable offerings are the ubiquitous sag panir, brindal bhajee and aloo gobi that have become so familiar.

But Anarkali has other things to recommend it. The room is pink and pleasant. The service is cheerful (“If there is anything you don’t like, please let us know,” said our waiter when he delivered the food). And I certainly can’t think of another restaurant where you will be served by a tuxedo-wearing waiter who unfurls your napkin and drapes it across your lap with a flourish--and later brings you a bill for a generous meal that comes to less than $10 per person.