Protecting Citrus, Planting New Lawns
Q: What can I do to avoid the damage that a frost could do to my newly planted citrus and avocado?--L.A., Canoga Park A: In inland areas, the trunks of newly planted citrus and other subtropical trees should be wrapped with insulating material such as fiberglass, wood-pulp wrap or newspaper. It should extend upward to include the lower branches and at the bottom make contact with the soil. Healthy trees can withstand cold better than weak ones, so fertilize regularly.
Q: We’ve decided to replace our skimpy, weed-infested lawn with sod. Should we attempt it ourselves or go to a professional?--T.R., Chino A: If you decide to reject the hassle-free approach of dealing with a landscape firm, remember these things. Be sure to remove all the old sod and work in humus or compost. Level the soil surface and roll it smooth as perfectly as possible. Lay the sod snugly with joints staggered, and water every day for several days. Birds and the wind distribute weed seed into even the purest, weed-free sod, so begin weed control early before nature gets too far ahead of you.
Q: Our new home borders brush - covered mountains, which makes us concerned about the danger of fire. What are your suggestions for planting a “green belt” of fire-resistant plants?--T.M., Burbank A: Certain plants are less flammable than others, having the potential to slow the spread of fire. Low-growing succulent plants with thick, fleshy stems and leaves, such as ice plant, sedum and crassula, are best. Low-growing perennials and shrubs such as saltbush, trailing gazania, santolina, trailing South African daisy and ivy geranium are of moderate value. The least fire-resistant plants are drought-tolerant plants with dry, leathery or rigid leaves and branches, such as ceanothus, rockrose, manzanita and rosemary.
Q: How do I grow new chrysanthemum plants from an old plant that has seen better days? -- S.P., Del Mar
A: Chrysanthemums do best if they are raised each year from the cuttings of new shoots or from the division of older clumps. The latter approach is easiest. In January or early February, select young shoots, three to four inches long, from outside the clump, and cut downward through the root system with a sharp knife. Lift out the shoot with its attached roots, and plant it in a soil mix consisting of equal parts of garden loam, peat moss and manure. Apply a rooting hormone to promote root formation and reduce plant shock.
