Madrid Shines With Inexpensive Hostels

We’re not the only Americans whose vision of a youth hostel is one of sexually segregated, dormitory-like quarters where backpack-laden young travelers stay quite cheaply in exchange for putting up with numerous house rules and doing minor chores.

Such communal living doesn’t appeal to the average traveler, and must be why so few bargain-conscious Americans are booking into the hundreds of inexpensive hostals in metropolitan Madrid. What a mistake.

The Spanish hostal is simply another hotel alternative, with no similarity whatsoever to youth hostels, aside from near-identical spelling and incredibly low prices. More than a third of the 50,000 available beds in Madrid are in one-, two-, or three-star hostals , different from hotels only in that they share a common building entrance with other businesses (often other hostals ) and have an owner/manager living on the premises.

The profusion of hostal signs on the Gran Via alone makes it easy for a first-time visitor to head directly to that major shopping street and find a suitable vacancy without a reservation. Simply go from building to building and from floor to floor, armed with a pocket dictionary or a few pertinent Spanish words.

Rated by Government

Hostals , like hotels, are rated and priced by the government. The higher a stellar designation, the higher the price. Hotels are rated up to five stars, hostals only to three. A higher listing doesn’t necessarily guarantee a more pleasant stay. Some owners prefer to keep rates down and occupancy up by refusing to request inspection for a higher rating.

Competition is keen, particularly in the one- and two-star categories, where you have almost 400 one-star and 175 two-star choices. European tour operators recognize the bargain and book their groups into these accommodations, but we rarely saw Americans other than the canny students and teachers who generally seem to spread travel budgets into longer trips, lowering hotel standards as a concession.

For the more demanding traveler, a three-star hostal might be the best initiation. All have elevators, telephones in the room, heat and full baths. Some have optional rooms with washbowl only, at a lower price. Be specific in a request for full facilities.

Most three-star hostals offer desayuno (breakfast) at an average cost of 200-400 pesetas and a few serve comida (lunch) or cena (dinner).

Prices last year for a double with bath ranged between 2,800 and 6,000 pesetas year round, with a median price of 3,800 pesetas ($28) during the high season, about June 1 through September, and during holidays.

Although most hostals maintain one rate all year, it’s best to clarify when booking to avoid any surprises. Even so, the price of the highest ranking hostal will be between $20 and $45 including taxes. That’s for a double.

The majority of two-star hostals have heat, elevator, optional private baths, and many have phones in the room. The average high-season price for 1986 was 2,277 pesetas ($17). Continental breakfast, when available, is less than $2. A few serve dinner, but with the profusion of cafes, bars and restaurants throughout Madrid, and with tapas everywhere, it seems a shame to consider eating in the hostal .

The ultimate bargain, recommended to adventurers only: the one-star hostal , where the going rate for a double averages less than $9. We spent a month at the immaculately clean Hostal Residencia Nuestra Senora de la Paloma, where ours were the only gray heads among the students and English teachers who keep this hostal filled via word of mouth.

Typical of one-star accommodations, baths and water closets are down the hall. Each room has a washbowl with, again typically, only cold water. One hot bath is included in the price and each time we requested hot water, Senora Basalo would hurriedly but thoroughly clean the entire room before notifying us that the bath was available. She would also wash and iron a small packet of our laundry each week. No charge!

Lower Expectations

The La Paloma has its drawbacks, as do all one-star hostals . But what do you expect for $9 a night? We rented by the month, which worked out to $5 a night--for two.

In Europe, one flight up is called the first floor, equivalent to our second. La Paloma is a long three-flight walk-up. Staircase lighting is regulated by timers that leave you in the dark unless you hurry along.

Bare fixtures with 25-watt bulbs hang from bedroom ceilings and few of the inexpensive hostals provide bedside lamps, so don’t plan to do much late-night reading unless you pack light bulbs.

If La Paloma is filled or a two-flight walk-up is your limit, consider the Hostal Commercial on the second floor. Remodeling should be completed by now and several rooms will have banos completos (full baths). Another plus--large, airy rooms that sleep four are available for about 1,800 pesetas. No food is provided in either of these locations, but excellent bars and restaurants are just around the corner in the Plaza Mayor, a must-see place on any tourist list.

On the corner of San Jeronimo and Puerta del Sol, the Times Square of Madrid and a gateway to excellent shopping, is the clean and bright Hostal Don Jorge, where a little English is spoken by the charming hosts. It has an elevator, hot water in the rooms and central heat (1400 pesetas for two). Here, unlike many hostals , reservations are accepted (at least a week in advance; include a personal check or money order to cover one night’s stay). Deposits are customarily returned on arrival, with full payment then made in Spanish currency.

Without Reservations

Many hostal owners refuse to accept reservations, or will take them without deposit. They consider that the nuisance involved exchanging foreign notes isn’t worthwhile. For the same reason, requests for written confirmation often go unanswered, so don’t assume that because you received no reply, the hostal is full. Most owners we spoke with prefer telephone reservation requests, seemingly unconcerned about the potential communication problem. Pull out your trusty Spanish dictionary and prepare a written speech.

The Gran Via is Madrid’s hostal row. Here are some of the city’s finest shops and people-watching cafes, within walking distance of most major tourist attractions. Check the profusion of hostal signs in every category. Each has an official plaque indicating “H” (for hotel), “HS” ( hostal --a small hotel with no restaurant), “HR” (hotel- residencia, meaning only breakfast is served) or “P” (pension--a guest house where you have all meals).

Our favorite three-star hostal , the Lope de Vega, is in the center of everything, high in an office building, with magnificent rooftop views of the city from the balconies of some of its better rooms. Accommodations are basic, but the bar, lobby and other common rooms are beautiful.

Grand piano recitals are held in the salon on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday evenings. Seasonal rates vary from 3,400 to 4,000 pesetas ($25-$30). Two good choices at 38 Gran Via are the Hostal California (no tubs, only showers--4,000 pesetas) and the Hostal Salas (breakfast included at 4,050 double). Both accept reservations with deposits in dollars.

The entire building at 15 Gran Via is a collection of two-star hostals . Hostal Avenida was an office until recently, and has been redecorated. Each of its 12 rooms has a new bath with tub or shower. Rates are 2,500 pesetas for two. Competition is keen throughout this building; being new, rooms are generally available.

Novel Arrangements

Hostal Galaico offers rooms with bath at 2,600 pesetas. A room with bath may mean that the bath or shower is literally within the bedroom, with only a curtain for separation. Occasionally, “hip” baths are available at lower cost. Consider these novelties part of the uniqueness of hostal travel.

The Hispano Argentino (3,500 pesetas) has a summer terrace, small bar and piano lounge. Senor Lenguazco speaks English and Italian, and will accept traveler’s checks with one month’s advance reservation. This building and No. 44 are the best bets for finding a bed at the last minute.

A few suggestions for the hostal visitor: Pack a sink stopper, washcloth, disposable flashlight, toilet paper and a large wattage light bulb unless you can read by the light of 25 watts. Include slippers and robe for treks down the hall.

Request a room in the rear wherever you stay in Madrid. It’s a noisy city. And if you travel off-season, hostals go into high gear remodeling and redecorating.

When baths are down the hall, try to get a room away from the action. Better a slight walk and a good night’s sleep.

Most important, take along your sense of humor and curiosity. Hostal savings can extend a vacation by at least another week.

For a complete listing of hostals in Madrid, contact the Spanish National Tourist office, 8383 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 960, Beverly Hills, Calif. 90211, phone (213) 658-7188.