ADVENTURES IN THE DEEP

Feel like fish? Consider dinner at one of these recently reviewed restaurants. THE FISH GRILL (7226 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 937-7162). It’s small, but the refreshing simplicity, sawdust on the floor, sweet kids at the counter and the exciting aroma of fresh fish make this a haven for diners fishing for bargains. The menu changes daily, but you can expect: trout from Idaho, sea bass from Chilean or Mexican waters, baby salmon from Washington state. (This place outfishes most of the “best” restaurants in town.) The fish and chips and fried trout are cooked in a blend of almond and peanut oils. Try the baked potatoes, cooked on the grill until the skin becomes crisp; French fries, piled high on the plate, or the refreshing Mediterranean salad, a chopped Middle Eastern salad with a simple vinaigrette. If, on the other hand, you wouldn’t think of eating off a paper plate with plastic cutlery, avoid this little gem. Sun.-Thur., 11 a.m.-9 p.m., Fri., 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Closed Saturday. Cash or check only. Evening parking in adjacent gas station or on street. No beer or wine. No dessert. Dinner for two, food only, $15-$20.

KAPPO KYARA (333 S. Alameda St., Los Angeles, (213) 626-5760). This engaging little restaurant in the new Little Tokyo Square doesn’t serve sushi; everything (but the pickles) that emerges from this innovative kitchen is fully cooked. You might begin with a rare specialty called yuba chakin . It’s made from yuba , which are tissue-thin translucent sheets skimmed from the surface of heated soy milk. They’re filled with finely minced crab and whitefish and then steamed in a bamboo basket, which produces a dazzling appetizer. Buri (yellowtail), a Japanese favorite, is especially delicious when broiled. Karei (sole) is fried to a golden curl. But the menu also offers something for meat eaters. Beef is served teriyaki-style in a thick sauce, or salt-broiled and delivered on a sizzling platter ( shio-yaki ). The menu is generally in English, but if you need help selecting a dish the staff is extremely accommodating. Mon.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 6-11:30 p.m. Beer and wine. Validated parking. AE, V, MC. Dinner for two, food only, $25-$35.

OCEAN AVENUE SEAFOOD (1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (213) 394-5669). Open only a few months, this place is already regularly packed. Is it the location? The ambiance? The food? Or a combination of the three? It’s a very pretty place that boasts an expansive wine list, smooth service and lots and lots of fish, baked, broiled, grilled or sauteed. For starters, sample the smoked tuna salad. It comes with a fine vinaigrette and a good handful of Roquefort and walnuts. The portions are generous and served with a pleasing array of vegetables. Grilled tiger prawns that come with an overpowering (but wonderful) plate of andouille sausage and white beans. Also splendid is the California yellowtail with a taxi-yellow orange cilantro butter. In the dessert department, the hot peach and berry cobbler with a healthy portion of ice cream is a catch. Open daily. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m., dinner 5 p.m.-11 p.m., till midnight Fri.-Sat. Reservations suggested. All major credit cards. Full bar. Valet parking. Dinner for two, food only, $40-$60.

RESTAURANT SHIRO (1505 Mission St., South Pasadena, (818) 799-4774). It’s just a storefront on a sleepy South Pasadena street, but the food is wonderful. Inside it is simple, but the high ceilings keep it from being noisy, the pleasant service keeps it from seeming spare--and the good food and reasonable prices keep people coming back. Virtually every entree on the menu (and it’s changed nightly) began its life in the water. The seafood salad is stunning, the generous portion of mussels, clams, shrimps and octopus lightly tossed with a fresh herb dressing. Tuna sashimi comes lovingly arranged between slices of avocado and then topped with limes. The whole catfish is a sizable and appealing dish that possesses a decidedly Asian accent: Shiro scores the fish and gently deep-fries it in the Chinese manner so that the flesh is still delicate and creamy. Sea bass is sauteed with shiitake mushrooms then served in a simple French white wine cream sauce. The waitress will probably recommend the raspberry creme brulee for dessert . Heed her advice. Dinner Tue.-Sun. Beer and wine. Street parking. MC, V. Dinner for two, food only, $30-$45.

ST. BARTH’S MARKET AND GRILL (15200 Sunset Blvd., No. 112, Pacific Palisades, (213) 454-5634). Caribbean food is perfect for late summer: sun-warmed fruit, fresh-caught fish, pungent tidbits and homey soups made with a light hand. The recently opened St. Barth’s serves a pleasing rendition of this easygoing fare. It’s also a friendly, lively place that boasts good acoustics. The coconut shrimp are generously rolled in unsweetened coconut. Conch fritters are luscious--deep, dark, fat, crisp balls of conch and potato served with a very tasty horseradish caper sauce. The fish is fresh and the servings are large. Dishes to look for: soft-shelled crab (sauteed in ginger butter); poached whitefish, grilled mahi-mahi or ahi . Desserts range from the wickedly delicious tarte tatin to the achingly sweet sherry cake. Closed Mondays. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat., brunch and dinner Sunday. Beer and wine. Street parking. AE, MC, V. Dinner for two, food only, $40-$55.