UNFANCY FRENCH

When you’re in the mood for a little French food but not in the mood to don your very best duds, why not consider the following restaurants? CASSIS (8450 West 3rd St., (213) 653-1079). Cushy, even plush, this restaurant features “Cuisine of the Sun”--that of Nice and Southern France. Settle into comfortable booths before perusing the carefully thought-out menu. Soupe de poisson is a delight: a smooth puree tweaked with a bit of saffron, and served with garlic toast and a fiery rouille. The breast of chicken with rosemary is tender, fragrant, juicy and served with terrific fries. Gnocchi with spinach, sage and Parmesan is totally melt-in-your-mouth. On the dessert side, you have a choice of a riveting black-currant sorbet, or the sensational raspberry creme brulee. Lunch, Mon.-Fri.; dinner, Mon.-Sat. Valet parking. Full bar. All major credit cards. Dinner for two, food only, $30-$60. LE BRASSERIE (in the Bel Age Hotel, 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood, (213) 854-1111). The waiters work this very pretty dining room like a charm; you should notice nary a glitch in the service department. Omelets, sandwiches and a number of entrees under 375 calories are the mainstays of the menu. There are also delightful shrimp and scallops with tagliarine in a light lobster sauce. The vegetables are wonderfully done. Lunch and dinner alike, Le Brasserie is an exceptional way to satisfy an appetite. Lunch and dinner daily. All major credit cards. Valet parking. Full bar. Dinner for two, food only, $40-$70. Sunday brunch buffet: $24.95 per person. LE BRASSERIE FRENCH CAFE (202 S. Main St., Orange, (714) 978-6161). Established for more than a decade, this cozy warren of dark-paneled rooms has service that pampers and food that pleases. The escargots are very nice, served in porcelain “snail shells” that keep the snails quite hot. Shrimp scampi is unusually good in a sharp lemon dressing. Look for a perfectly fine mild smoked salmon with chopped onions and capers. Also worth a try: A simple double loin lamb chop that is utterly perfect; coq au vin rouge (the real thing) with the chicken cooked till it’s falling off the bone in a hearty red wine sauce full of mushrooms. Lunch, Mon.-Fri.; dinner, Mon.-Sat. Full bar. Parking in lot. AE, MC, V. Dinner for two, food only, $30-$40. LES ANGES (14809 Pacific Coast Highway, Santa Monica, (213) 454-1331). Sitting at the cozy gray-white bar you’ll feel that you have set out to sea. Soothing piano jazz cuts into the quiet air. . . . Oysters are served in an elegant bath of Champagne and julienned leeks. Artichoke barigoule are baby ones in a delightful and delicate vegetable sauce. There is one lobster dish that is imbued with the flavor of herbs; you may never have such a delicately flavored lobster. The vegetables are rich and absolutely superb, and the desserts are always good. Dinner only, Tue. through Sun.; Sun. brunch. Full bar. Valet parking. All major credit cards except American Express. Dinner for two, food only, $50-$70.

PASTEL (421 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, (213) 274-9775). Laughter fills the air; people gather around big tables covered with enormous platters of food and touch glasses while waiters in long white aprons scamper about with baskets of beautiful vegetables. After the crudites, served with herbed vinaigrette and good bread, you have your choice of beef, lamb, fish or chicken. These are simply and perfectly grilled and served with whole potatoes roasted right in the ashes of the fire. Desserts are abundantly served. Big bowls of chocolate mousse are brought to your table, along with airy puffs of floating islands in a gooey caramel sauce and great red wheels of strawberry tarts. Lunch and dinner daily. Full bar. Valet parking. Country French meal provided daily. Price of prix fixe meal, food only, is $22.50 per person.