MILAN

As Italian designers unveil their spring collections in Milan starting this weekend, women’s fears about the return of sky-high hemlines might well be put to rest. A preview of the new styles, photographed for The Times, indicates how Italy’s cutting-edge designers all think for themselves.

Krizia’s Mariuccia Mandelli makes the strongest case for short with a thigh-grazing suit skirt to wear with a jacket that closes by way

of a loosely tied knot instead of buttons.

Gianni Versace’s answer to short skirts is short bloomers. They’re puffy and playful and they peek out from under a short, belted coatdress. Luciano Soprani shows his wide-cut walking shorts with an ankle-length duster.

Gianfranco Ferre’s elegant answer to over-exposed legs is a pantsuit. The obi-style sash he uses to accent the waistline has become a Ferre trademark.

Surprisingly, one of the longest-length outfits is by Romeo Gigli, one of the newer, more daring of Italy’s lead designers. His soft, billowing two-piece outfit cascades to an uneven hemline at mid-calf length.

Another ankle-grazing dress, worn with a close-fitted but modest cardigan, is by Dolce e Gabbana. It evokes the fashion look of certain postwar Italian art films.