Strolling Across the White Sands of Serene Zuma Beach

Zuma Beach is one of Los Angeles County’s largest sand beaches and one of the finest white sand strands in California.

Zuma lies beyond Santa Monica Bay and thus receives heavy breakers. From sunrise to sunset, board and body surfers try to catch a big one. Every month the color of the ocean and the Santa Monica Mountains seem to take on different shades of green depending on the season and sunlight, providing the Zuma Beach hiker with yet another attraction.

During the late-December-to-March whale-watching season, hikers ascending to the lookout atop Point Dume have a good chance of spotting a migrating California gray whale. Rangers from nearby Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area are often on hand during the weekends to help sight the whales.

This hike travels along the part of Zuma Beach known as Westward Beach, climbs over the geologically fascinating Point Dume headlands for sweeping views of the coast, then descends to Paradise Cove, site of a romantic little beach and a fishing pier.

Directions to trailhead: From Pacific Coast Highway, about 25 miles up the coast from Santa Monica and just down the coast from Zuma Beach County Park, turn oceanward on Westward Beach Road and follow it to its end at a parking lot. There is a $4 entrance fee.

Consult the tide table in The Times. Passage is easier at low tide.

The Hike: Walk south along sandy Westward Beach. You’ll soon see a distinct path leading up the point. The trail ascends 200 feet in elevation through a coastal scrub community of sea fig and purple sage, giant coreopsis and prickly pear cactus to a lookout point.

During the winter, the possibility of spotting a migrating gray whale swimming toward Baja is good. The migration route brings them close to shore.

From atop Point Dume, you can look down at Pirate’s Cove, 200 yards of beach tucked away between two rocky outcroppings. In past years, this beach was the scene of much dispute between nude-beach advocates, residents and the county sheriff.

As you stand atop the rocky triangle projecting into the Pacific, observe the dense black Zuma volcanics and the much softer white sedimentary beds of the sea cliffs extending east and west. The volcanics have resisted the crashing sea far better than the sedimentary rock and have protected the land behind from further erosion, thus forming the triangle shape of the point.

From the lookout, retrace your steps a short distance and continue on the main trail over the point, which has been set aside as a preserve under the protection of the California Department of Fish and Game. A staircase lets you descend to the beach.

A mile of beach walking brings you to privately owned Paradise Cove, sometimes called Dume Cove. It’s a secluded spot, and the scene of much TV and motion picture filming. Fans of “The Rockford Files” will remember that private investigator Jim Rockford lived in a beachfront mobile home here. The Sand Castle restaurant and a private pier are at the cove.

Return the same way.

Zuma-Dume Trail

Zuma Beach to Point Dume:

One mile round trip; 200-foot elevation gain Zuma Beach to Paradise Cove:

Three miles round trip; 200-foot elevation gain