Bid to Americanize British French Fries Causes a Flap

McDonald’s Corp. has decided that the British spud is a dud when it comes to french fries, and its plan to switch to U.S. potato varieties has created a flap among some patriots.

The fast-food chain plans to use British-grown potatoes of the North American variety called the Russet Burbank. For years, it has used British-grown potatoes of the British Pentland Dell variety.

A company spokeswoman said Thursday that the decision to make the change in the British McDonald’s outlets was made “basically because the Russet Burbank has got a better flavor and texture.

“It is a more suitable potato for our requirements,” she said, speaking on condition of anonymity.

She said British farmers have been contracted to grow the American variety.

McDonald’s is a big customer of the British potato farmer. It needs 55,000 tons of potatoes a year to keep its 263 British outlets in the chips, as the french fry is called here.

Lawmaker Skeptical

The American variety produces french fries that hang tantalizingly over the edge of their packets without breaking in the middle, farmers told the Today newspaper.

But agricultural expert Michael Shaw, who isn’t happy about the switch, told the newspaper: “McDonald’s is so powerful in the fast-food business that they are killing off the great British chip.”

Conservative lawmaker Ann Winterton agreed.

“My primary interest is promoting food which is grown in this country. Potatoes is a crop we grow particularly well. There are many varieties of excellent qualities.”

She said it would surprise her if the American variety was better.

Another Tory member of Parliament, Jerry Wiggin, chairman of the House of Commons select committee on agriculture, said: “Judging from the fantastic support from my own children, McDonald’s doesn’t appear to be doing badly using British potatoes.”

No Major Switch

McDonald’s conducted tests with the Russet Burbank on farms throughout the country during the past eight years, according to the Daily Telegraph.

This year, production of the Russet Burbank, which was developed in California 112 years ago, is in full swing on about 4,000 acres, the Daily Telegraph said.

Britain’s Potato Marketing Board is not opposed to the switch.

“The amount of potatoes being taken up on the processing side is increasing and obviously, if growers want to take advantage of it, obviously they have to grow what the buyers want,” said a board spokeswoman, who asked not to be identified.

McDonald’s main rivals, however, say they are sticking with their British spuds.

John Shedden, a spokesman for Burger King, said the British variety meets all of Burger King’s requirements. Burger King has 18 outlets in Britain.