FOOD : De Mori’s Midas Touch : Owner-Proprietor of Tuttobene Knows How to Please His Patrons

SILVIO DEMORI of Tuttobene will probably go down in Los Angeles dining history as one of the city’s great restaurateurs.

He knows how to draw blood out of a turnip, turn a toad into a prince and a bumbling business into an outrageous success.

Magic? “Not at all,” De Mori says. “You know it is always hard work. But I love food and I love people.”

De Mori began his career in Los Angeles in 1984 as manager of Rex Il Ristorante, and almost immediately afterward became the operator of the unsung Pane Caldo. His first income as chef, waiter and cashier was $33. But he had partnership troubles there, and ultimately his share was bought out by investor Luca Valerio, but De Mori’s food, nevertheless, was well received; he knows how good food should taste and look, and he is adept at honoring customers’ whims and wishes. De Mori bought Bono’s in May, 1986, and almost overnight transformed the dying restaurant into Silvio’s, to glowing reviews. He lured the displaced patrons of Ma Maison to Silvio’s. Last year De Mori found himself taking over Patrick Terrail’s expiring Hollywood Diner, and De Mori’s clientele followed him there. With a deft change of name and a loosening up of the slick diner look, Tuttobene has become a thriving, bustling business.

De Mori serves modern Italian cuisine at Tuttobene, including the best tortellini, strozzapretti and Florentine steak in town. De Mori is a strong presence, with a Parisian accent and the polished air of a diplomat, perhaps because, although born near Venice, he grew up in Paris. He went back to Italy--Florence--for his first venture in the restaurant business.

You can try a sample of De Mori’s handiwork (he cooks, too) with the recipe given here. A Santa Cristina Antinori (Chianti Classico) wine would be an appropriate accompaniment.

TUTTOBENE SCALOPPINE ALLA FIORENTINA 4 (1/2-inch thick) veal scaloppine (about 1 pound) cup fine, dry bread crumbs1 tablespoon minced rosemary leaves3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 onion, minced1 clove garlic, minced1 stalk celery, diced1 carrot, diced3 cups chicken broth1 pound tomatoes, peeled2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leavesSalt, black pepper1 tomato, diced Rinse and pat veal scaloppine dry. Mix bread crumbs with rosemary leaves and use to bread scaloppine on both sides.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in large nonstick skillet. Add scaloppine and cook 1 minute on each side. Set aside and keep warm.

Heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in separate skillet. Add onion, garlic, celery and carrot. Cook 20 minutes until mushy and sauce-like. If too dry, add a few drops of chicken broth as needed to keep moist.

Add tomatoes with 1 tablespoon basil. Simmer over low heat, whisking until sauce is reduced to a smooth puree, about 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Place breaded scaloppine in hot sauce. Transfer scaloppine to serving platter. Top with some of the sauce and sprinkle with fresh basil. Place diced tomato around for garnish. Makes 4 servings.

Photography by John Reed Forsman / Food styling by Stephanie Puddy / Flowers courtesy of My Son the Florist / Plates courtesy of the Brass Tree.