SEAFOOD ACCORDING TO JOHN ASH

Which happened first? The demise of the yuppies or the death of their seafood craze, the blackened Cajun redfish that smoked one out of the kitchen? It doesn’t matter anymore. As of today both “species” are nothing but blackened memories.

Now that the redfish is back in the water (it has, in fact, been banned from commercial fishing by Louisiana state law to prevent it from being devoured into extinction), cooks can open their kitchen door for a better catch.

For a genuine adventurer like John Ash, fishing for new seafood ideas means experimenting with exciting varieties from lake, sea and fish farms. Freshly caught from the nutrient-rich waters of Bodega Bay, the crustaceans and fish available to the noted Sonoma County chef are still a long way from spoiling him. Two of his purveyors are Bill Timko of Point St. George and Kate Monihan, a former banker who sells hard-to-find specialty fish. Sometimes a fisherman who has caught an unusual fish will call the chef. The last caller had “wolf eel,” but that species didn’t seem to work out in the pan.

On a frequent search for great-tasting fresh seafood, Ash likes to provide new additions to his menu, rewriting it about every week. “I’m a victim of whatever’s hot at the moment,” he said, “we’re also experimenting constantly with new sauces to complement entrees, about 50% of which is seafood. Many people really get excited about fish, particularly children of the ‘60s, who are going through a vegetarian phase,” said Ash.

It was last summer when he and his friends and partners finally opened the much-awaited John Ash & Co. restaurant (the old one was opened in 1980) at the lovely Vintner’s Inn in Santa Rosa. Encircled by 50 acres of Pinot Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc vineyards, the spacious, high-ceilinged restaurant shows elegant architecture yet gives a country flair reflecting the myriad colors of the vineyard landscape.

The nature-loving chef already is creating artistic culinary treatments for his recent fish acquaintance. His latest discoveries were gathered from the international seafood exhibits at Sea Fare ‘88, held recently at the Long Beach Convention Center. “I’m very excited about the soft-shell crawfish from Louisiana, which I expect to get soon in the restaurant. I felt it was my most interesting find at the show,” Ash said.

Taste-wise, we agreed with Ash, based on our own delicious sampling of those crisp-fried soft-shell delicacies from a particular seafood booth. One of the distributors, Mark Rhodes of Gulf Coast Seafood Shippers Ltd. in Baker, La., said, “The totally edible crawfish should be the next craze among restaurateurs; it already is in Louisiana.” Asked if any fish has replaced the redfish (channel bass red drum), Rhodes, who also is a chef at his Rhodes Cafe, pointed to the black drum fish, a firm-textured, low-fat type that takes very well to the high-heat grilling method. (For mail orders or for more information on the soft-shell crawfish, call (504) 775-8079 or write: Gulf-Coast, 918 Main Street, Baker, La. 70714.)

Ash’s second Sea Fare catch was another black-skinned fish called the tilapia , an ancient geothermal freshwater fish that is also known as St. Peter’s fish. He favors the fish for its delicate-tasting and thick, fine-textured white meat. He thinks that the fish’s good size and body shape provides a wonderful potential for grilling over coals.

Unusual fish--colorful and pretty, as well as gross-looking sea monsters--intrigued Ash and other chefs we met at the show. To cite a few, there were the albino catfish, sea urchins, the buffalo fish, the multihued parrot fish, the tentacled, weird-looking but scrumptious tasting barnacles, the slippery eel, and the ugly monkfish prized for its lobster-like monkfish cheeks.

“Also interesting but disconcerting was the abundance of surimi-based crab, shrimp and even lobster,” said Ash, who wasn’t used to their sweet flavors. He admitted that some surimi products, such as Sea Legs, were actually pretty good.

Dried, salted codfish from Norway sparked an idea for him to cook with potatoes and serve as a brunch item with eggs. Another of his favorite seafood buys is the smoked salmon. He uses a good Norwegian kind in his delightful Smoked Salmon Cheesecake that he garnishes with salmon caviar. Beyond this he was also interested in the offerings from Alaska. “Although not as sweet as the California Dungeness, the Alaskan Dungeness is larger and you get more of it,” Ash said.

To lure less adventuresome seafood diners, Ash still turns to addictive fish favorites, some of which fortunately have dropped in price and become more available. Popular standbys include salmon, scallops, shrimp, Dungeness or stone crabs and oysters. He makes a garlicky parsley-butter poaching broth or sauce with a touch of dry Vermouth that complements the real flavors of warmed crustaceans, particularly enhancing the sweetness of crab. Shrimp is a leading favorite anywhere. Buoyed by greater aquaculture sources from the Spanish waters to the Far East, shrimp has become increasingly economical. Peter Redmayne, editor and publisher of Seafood Leader trade magazine, who sponsored Sea Fare, said that we should expect to see a lot of beautiful shrimp from China. He predicts that if its increased production continues, that country will become the world’s leading seafood-producing nation, concentrating on shrimp, clams and abalone.

Ash shared the recipe for a delicious shrimp salad borrowed from Oriental cuisine. He dressed oven-poached or steamed large shrimp with a mayonnaise made with Chinese salted black beans and laced it with nori (dried Japanese seaweed used in sushi). When using seafood for salads or with a savory sauce, Ash provides flavor in the fish itself by his oven-poaching technique. He places the seafood on a bed of sauteed mushrooms and green onions and steam-bakes it at 500 degrees for a few minutes until the fish is almost done, then he turns the heat off and covers the fish with parchment paper to finish cooking.

A good fish stock is also a basic. Ash takes advantage of the concentrated flavor of fish or shrimp heads (only if they are ultra-fresh) and shrimp shells to make a basic stocks for his seafood sauces. Aromatic vegetables like celery, bay leaf, caramelized or sauteed onions and carrots are combined with either fish stock or clam broth.

John Ash may have given up a career in marketing, but as one with an educational background in fine arts he expresses aesthetic savvy in the culinary field. Watching him embellish the grilled salmon on a plate he prepared in The Times Test Kitchen was like watching an artist painting on canvas.

Inspired by the lovely landscape around him, the chef loves to decorate with edible flowers. He adores begonia blossoms, not just for a garden effect but for their taste. “It’s like biting into a wedge of lemon,” he said. Surrounded by lavish fresh produce from small farms in Sonoma County, Ash artistically translates nature’s contributions into garnishes or nutritious accompaniments for his fish or meat dishes.

Of course, no seafood dinner would be complete without wine. And, although Ash seems to be flexible in choosing a wine for his fish dishes, he says: “If I had one last meal, my greatest wish would be grilled salmon, cooked as little as possible over mesquite, and served with a nice Pinot Noir. It’s a real killer.”

The following is a tasty sampling of John Ash’s seafood recipes.

SMOKED SALMON CHEESECAKE

1 medium onion, minced

3 tablespoons butter

1 3/4 pounds natural (no thickeners) cream cheese

1/3 cup half and half

1/2 cup shredded Gruyere or asiago cheese

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

4 eggs

1/2 pound good quality smoked salmon, finely chopped

Walnut Crust

Saute onion in butter until tender, but not browned. Combine cream cheese and half and half. Cream by mixer or by hand until smooth. Add sauteed onion, Gruyere cheese, salt and white pepper. Mix well. Add eggs, one at a time, beating slowly until just incorporated. Stir in smoked salmon.

Pour mixture into Walnut Crust and bake at 350 degrees 45 to 50 minutes or until center is set. Chill 2 hours before serving. Garnish with salmon caviar, baby lettuce and edible flower petals, if desired. Makes 16 to 20 appetizer servings, or 10 to 12 entree servings.

Note: If substituting regular cream cheese for natural, use 1/2 cup half and half instead of 1/3 cup.

Walnut Crust

2 cups white or French bread crumbs

1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts

1/2 cup butter, melted

1/4 cup shredded Gruyere or asiago cheese

1 teaspoon dry dill weed

Combine bread crumbs, walnuts, butter, cheese and dill weed in bowl. Mix well together and press firmly into bottom and sides of buttered 9-inch spring form pan. Chill.

GRILLED FISH WITH PRESERVED LEMONS, ROASTED RED PEPPERS AND OIL-CURED OLIVES

1 large red sweet pepper

2 pounds salmon, sea bass or any oily firm fish fillets like ono or ahi

1 tablespoon fragrant extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons slivered Preserved Lemons

2 tablespoons slivered oil-cured olives

Char red pepper over flame or under broiler. When black all over, plunge into cold water. Seed, peel and cut into long julienne strips.

Lightly coat fish fillets with olive oil. Grill over hot coals (or cast iron skillet grill) being careful not to overcook, 2 to 3 minutes on each side.

Center should be slightly translucent. Remove to warm platter. Quickly garnish with Preserved Lemons, red pepper and olives.

Note: Salt is optional for fish as Preserved Lemons will provide seasoning.

Preserved Lemons

6 ripe lemons, preferably sweet Meyer lemons

1/2 cup sea or kosher salt

1 tablespoon sugar

2/3 cup lemon juice

1 1/2 cups olive oil

Cut lemons into 6 or 8 wedges each and toss with salt and sugar. Place in 1-quart glass jar with tight fitting lid. Pour in lemon juice and close tightly. Let sit at room temperature 1 week, shaking jar each day to mix salt, sugar and lemons.

At end of week, pour olive oil over and store indefinitely in refrigerator.

CRAB IN VERMOUTH

1/3 pound butter

1 cup dry white vermouth

1 1/2 cups fish stock (or bottled clam juice simmered with aromatic vegetables)

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic

1 tablespoons tamari or soy sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons water

Fresh cooked cracked crab or lobster, clams, mussels, scallops

Crusty French bread

Combine butter, vermouth, fish stock, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, garlic, soy sauce, lemon juice, sugar and cornstarch solution in saucepan. Simmer 10 minutes covered.

Add crab or other seafood. Warm to desired serving temperature. Sprinkle with remaining chopped parsley. Serve with crusty French bread to soak up juices. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Sauce may be made ahead and stored in refrigerator. Reheat when needed.

SCALLOPS AND SHRIMP IN FISH STOCK WITH TRUFFLE

1 pound large shrimp

1 large leek, split and cleaned

1 large carrot, peeled

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped

1 quart rich fish stock

1/8 teaspoon saffron threads

1 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon tomato paste

Dash bouquet garni

1 pound bay or sea scallops

1/2 ounce fresh black truffle or porcini mushrooms

Sprigs watercress

Peel and devein shrimp, reserving shells. Coarsely chop half of leek and half of carrot. Heat olive oil in skillet and saute leek, carrot and celery until lightly browned. Add fish stock, reserved shrimp shells, saffron, white wine, tomato paste and bouquet garni.

Bring just to boil and simmer 8 to 10 minutes, uncovered. Strain, pressing on vegetables to extract juices. Clarify stock, if desired.

Carefully julienne remaining carrot and leek and blanch in salted water few seconds. Reserve for garnish.

At serving time, reheat stock to simmer. Add shrimp and scallops and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and divide among 8 serving bowls. Garnish with julienne of vegetables, watercress and shavings of truffles. Serve immediately. Makes 8 servings.

Note: For easy fish stock, substitute bottled clam juice simmered 10 minutes with celery, bay leaf, carrots and caramelized or sauteed onions.

APPETIZER OF SHRIMP OR LOBSTER WITH CHINESE SALTED BLACK BEAN MAYONNAISE

12 large cooked and seasoned shrimp or chunks lobster meat

Salt, pepper

2 eggs

Juice of 1 lemon

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 chopped tablespoon cilantro

1/4 cup Chinese salted black beans, rinsed thoroughly to remove excess salt

1 cup light olive or peanut oil

Hot pepper sauce

Salt, preferably sea salt

Freshly ground white pepper

Mixed young greens

Strips nori (dry Japanese seaweed sheet)

If using shrimp, peel and devein. Chill seafood. To make mayonnaise, combine eggs, lemon juice, garlic and cilantro in food processor. Process until just combined, about 10 seconds. With processor running, slowly add oil. Add black beans and pulse until just combined. (Overprocessing results in muddy appearance.)

Season to taste with hot pepper sauce, salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour to let flavors develop.

Serve shrimp on bed of mixed greens with mayonnaise and garnish with strips of nori. Makes 4 servings.

SALAD OF ALBACORE TUNA, GREENS AND ORANGE-SAFFRON SABAYON

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 cup chopped green onions

1/2 cup sliced mushrooms

1 (3/4-pound) loin of albacore

1/4 cup dry white wine or broth

Salt, pepper

1 large head Belgian endive

1 small head frisee or other slightly bitter green, julienned

Orange-Saffron Sabayon

Watercress sprigs

1 large navel orange, peeled and sectioned

2 medium tomatoes, peeled and sliced in wedges

4 cooked crayfish, optional

Heat oil in oven-proof skillet and saute green onions and mushrooms until tender. Place albacore on top and add wine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Place skillet in 500-degree oven 2 to 4 minutes and bake until fish is almost done. Turn heat off and cover with parchment paper or foil. Leave fish in oven several minutes, to allow fish to finish cooking. Cool, then cut fish in julienne strips.

Arrange endive leaves attractively on 4 plates. Top with julienne of frisee and tuna. Carefully spoon Orange-Saffron Sabayon on top of fish and garnish with watercress, orange segments, tomatoes and crayfish. Makes 4 servings.

Orange-Saffron Sabayon

1/2 cup rich fish stock (or bottled clam juice simmered 10 minutes with aromatic vegetables)

1/3 cup dry white wine

1/8 teaspoon saffron threads

1/2 cup whipping cream

1/4 cup bottled or homemade mayonnaise

1 to 2 tablespoons frozen orange juice concentrate

Salt

Cayenne pepper

Combine fish stock, wine and saffron in small saucepan and reduce to about 3 tablespoons liquid. Remove from heat and cool.

Whip cream to soft peaks. Fold in mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon orange concentrate and saffron reduction. Season to taste with remaining orange juice concentrate, salt and cayenne pepper. (Sauce should be very thick and should coat spoon well.) Makes about 1 3/4 cups.