The following are summaries of recent Times restaurant reviews.

Al’s Steakhouse and Saloon, 16020 E. 1st St., Santa Ana . (714) 550-0847 . Open for dinner daily from 5 to 10 p.m. (until 11 on weekends). Just as our waitress promised, there’s “nothin’ fancy, just food” at this urban steakhouse that looks as if it belongs alongside one of those old highways made obsolete by the interstates. Appetizers are served on large, cast-iron skillets, and there is a giant relish tray with all meals. Salad dressings are homemade and include a very good Caesar and a thick, hearty ranch. Steaks can be tough, but non-steak items are terrific. Be hungry, or have a big dog waiting at home.

Capriccio Italiano Ristorante, 25830 Marguerite Parkway, Village Mall, Mission Viejo. (714) 855-6866. Open Monday through Friday for lunch; daily for dinner. Visa and MasterCard.

Capriccio may mean “whim” in Italian, but there is nothing whimsical about the food in this restaurant; it is polished and sophisticated. For my money, it is a real find. The kitchen is run by two brothers from Palermo, Sal and Franco Maniaci, but there is barely a trace of Sicilian influence in the dishes they serve. Appetizers like vitello tonnato and lumache del bosco are marvelous, and pastas are fresh and homemade. Many main dishes have French overtones, like a stylish lamb rack with truffles and foie gras , or a civet of hare called lepre salmi. Cappriccio’s location is modest, and so are prices, but its class is obvious.

Dewi, 1762 N. Tustin Ave., Orange, (714) 637-1101, and 9606 Hamilton, Huntington Beach, (714) 962-4446.

Hurry over--while there is still time--to Dewi in Orange, a small Indonesian restaurant/grocery store hidden among commercial properties along a busy avenue. Nasi rames is a mixed rice plate with a whole cookbook full of Indonesian goodies, and the restaurant has fabulous barbecued chicken and hot stewed beef dishes. Owner Edith Vredevoogd is constantly preparing little snacks like lemper , a sticky rice roll filled with minced chicken, or cendol , mysterious green bits taken with crushed ice, syrup, and jackfruit. Don’t despair if you miss the Orange restaurant, though. There is a second Dewi run by Mrs. V’s brother in Huntington Beach. Exotica at its best.