SUMMER ENTERTAINING : Picnic Chic : Three Top Chefs Create Masterful Menus for the Great Outdoors.

IF PICNICS HAVE BEEN anything less than a joy up to now, then let these menus inspire you. From three of the top chefs in town, they represent state-of-the-art alfresco dining. They are also masterpieces of concept and design, each with its stamp of style, whether the entree is a humble sandwich or a haughty salad. Equally important, they are practical enough for the amateur to adapt, modify and master.

The first menu is by Celestino Drago, of Celestino Ristorante in Beverly Hills and Cafe Panino at the Museum of Contemporary Art. It calls for panino , the wonderfully robust Italian sandwich sold as fast food throughout Italy and the specialty of MOCA’s cafe. The sandwiches lend themselves to a multitude of bread and filling possibilities and are easy to pack and simple to eat. You can use Drago’s recipe for one of the fillings (he uses a California-inspired combination of avocado, red pepper, bacon and goat cheese), or you can concoct your own, using any rolls or French bread and fillings. Some Italian delis and bakeries carry a line of panino- type sandwich rolls. In Italy there are almost as many types of panini as there are villages.

Drago selected Italian rice balls for his menu, because they are easy to eat by hand, and their crispy crusts and soft centers make them appealing picnic food. You might find a few Italian restaurants and delis willing to sell them to go, but any crispy food, such as deep-fried fresh rigatoni sprinkled with grated cheese or other fresh (not dry) pasta, will do.

Strawberries, a perfect picnic fruit, can be pre-dipped in chocolate and carried to a picnic in an ice chest, or you can let guests dip their own at the site.

Madeleines (small molded cakes) can be substituted, as can other favorite cookies. If there are children in the group, Drago suggests trying health-food cookies that are extra-rich in nuts, raisins and grains

Tommy Tang, another top Los Angeles chef, prepared a Thai menu typical of his innovative touch. There is an easy-to-tote pasta--a variation on the cold Italian pasta salad theme, using chicken breasts and spinach linguine tossed with a sweet-and-sour sauce.

Crispy, stuffed chicken wings make wonderful munching food at picnics, and they can be found for take-out at most Thai restaurants. If it’s too difficult to make them at home, substitute a simple recipe for shrimp toast. You’ll enjoy the crisp, cool arugula doused with Rosemary-Honey Vinaigrette as an accompaniment to the pasta. If arugula is difficult to find, substitute any of the lettuces. Tang also chose strawberries for his picnic dessert. Refreshing and appropriate.

The last menu is an ultra-elegant French picnic by one of the great French chefs in Los Angeles, Laurent Quenioux of the Seventh Street Bistro. He selected a menu based on his to-go, home-delivered picnics launched this year in time for the Hollywood Bowl season. Of course, you can pick up the telephone and call in your selections from several to-go menus offered, but those who wish to can prepare some of the less complex dishes (featured here) at home.

There is a lovely lobster salad that is gorgeous and delicious. A Cold Poached Salmon With Herb Dressing is simple to prepare. Instead of the lobster salad, you might want to serve marinated breast of chicken with ga z pacho- type vegetables.

It’s safe to carry chocolate mousse over ice if it’s served within two hours. If not, bring a less perishable dessert: torte, fruit tart or chocolate cake.

CELESTINO DRAGO’S CALIFORNIA PANINO 12 ounces sliced, cooked breast of turkey 4 michete (Italian sandwich rolls), split 4 medallions goat cheese, rolled in coarsely ground black pepper 4 tablespoons finely diced sweet red pepper 4 tablespoons crumbled crisp bacon 1 avocado, peeled, seeded and thinly sliced Layer turkey slices on 4 split roll halves. Cover third of surface of each turkey layer with quarter of avocado slices; another third with 1 tablespoon diced pepper, and last third with tablespoon crumbled bacon. Top center of each sandwich filling with goat-cheese medallion. Cover with remaining roll halves. Makes 4 sandwiches.

TOMMY TANG’S THAI PASTA 1 7- to 9-ounce boneless chicken breast 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 pound fresh spinach linguine Thai Sauce 3 tablespoons diced sweet red pepper 3 tablespoon small diced tomato 1 carrot, cut julienne (2 inches long, 1/8-inch wide) 1/2 teaspoon ground dried oregano 8 to 10 sprigs cilantro Bake unseasoned chicken at 375 degrees 15 minutes or until just tender but not overcooked. Or steam, or cook in water to barely cover over high heat 15 minutes. Drain, shred and set aside.

Add 1 tablespoon oil to enough water to cook pasta. Bring to boil. Add pasta and boil 2 to 4 minutes or until linguine rises to surface. It should be al dente . Drain and rinse in cold water. Set aside to cool.

Place cold pasta in large bowl. Add Thai Sauce and toss until pasta is well coated with sauce. To serve, place pasta serving in each bento box or large serving platter. To remaining sauce in pan add shredded chicken, tossing to coat well. Remove chicken from sauce and place over pasta, distributing evenly if using bento . Sprinkle with red pepper, diced tomato, carrot and oregano. Garnish with cilantro. Makes 8 to 10 servings

Thai Sauce

7 tablespoons virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 2 tablespoons fish sauce 2 tablespoons sweet black bean sauce 3 tablespoons lime juice 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper or to taste Heat olive oil in saute pan over low heat and add garlic. Cook until lightly browned. Place roasted garlic oil in large mixing bowl. Add fish sauce, black bean sauce, lime juice and black and red peppers, mixing well.

ARUGULA SALAD WITH ROSEMARY HONEY VINAIGRETTE 6 bunches arugula Rosemary Honey Vinaigrette 1 whole sweet red pepper, grilled or baked 3 cloves garlic, split 12 pieces sun-dried tomatoes, sliced -inch wide 1 tablespoon olive oil Rinse arugula in cold water and remove roots. Drain well and crisp in refrigerator.

Pour Rosemary Honey Vinaigrette over arugula and toss to coat well. Place arugula on individual plates. Peel pepper and slice into -inch julienne strips. Sear garlic in olive oil until crisp. Remove garlic and reserve. Place red pepper and sun-dried tomatoes in remaining vinaigrette; toss lightly to season. Sprinkle pepper and tomatoes over arugula and place roasted garlic on top. Serves 6.

Rosemary Honey Vinaigrette

3 tablespoons honey 8 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce 6 tablespoons white Zinfandel 1 teaspoon ground rosemary 1/2 teaspoon white pepper 2 teaspoons grated, ginger root 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1/2 teaspoon salt 4 tablespoons lemon juice Combine honey, olive oil, soy sauce, Zinfandel, rosemary, pepper, ginger, garlic and salt in large mixing bowl. Whisk well. Slowly add lemon juice and whisk lightly until well blended. Makes 2 cups.

LAURENT QUENIOUX’S LOBSTER SALAD IN THE SHELL

1 1/2 pounds lobster, cooked and cut into medium- sized pieces 1/2 pound baby lettuce 2 avocados Dijon Mustard Dressing Chill lobster meat in shell. Clean and dry lettuce. Slice avocados and form into fan. Place lettuce along inside of fanned avocados and top with lobster pieces.

Add Dijon Mustard Dressing on side just before serving. Makes 2 servings.

Dijon Mustard Dressing

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons olive oil Bunch basil, ( 1/2-ounce package) choppedJuice of 1 lemon..Salt, pepper Blend together mustard, olive oil, basil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Makes about cup.

POACHED SALMON WITH HERB DRESSING 2 pounds fresh salmon Bunch chives Bunch chervil ( 1/2-ounce package) Bunch tarragon ( 1/2-ounce package) Bunch basil ( 1/2-ounce package) Bunch parsley 1 clove garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil Juice of 1 lemon Salt, pepper Poach salmon in salted water to cover halfway until just tender. Place in refrigerator to cool in liquid.

Blend chives, chervil, tarragon, basil, parsley and garlic in blender on full power. Gradually add oil. Add lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Mixture should be consistency of thick dressing. Add more oil if needed.

Spoon dressing on large platter. Drain salmon and place over dressing. Makes 6 servings.

PRODUCED BY ROBIN TUCKER/PHOTOGRAPHS: STEVEN ROTHFELD/FOOD STYLIST: JANET MILLER