Cooking Is a Matter of Fine-Tuning

Harmony McCoy, who became a well-known chef after he had given up a long career as Lionel Hampton’s music arranger, often expressed a belief that artistic talent of any kind gave an individual a leg up in the kitchen, too, and that cooking was as much an expression of art as painting or playing the piano.

Mr. McCoy, meet Jason Mann.

Mann, 31, is a songwriter, singer and guitarist who can strum as mean a melody of culinary delights as he can a program of jazz--or punk, funk or heavy metal, for that matter. Until he disbanded the band late last year, Mann was the leader of the highly regarded El Grupo Sexo, described in The Times as “one of the most talked-about acts on the local music scene.”

Times writer Randy Lewis called the band “delightfully outrageous and good-humored” and said it had the “ability of winning over even the most jaded club audiences.” The breakup earned headlines in both general interest and trade publications because El Groupo Sexo’s second album was about to hit the market and the recording company was concerned about promoting the works of a band that no longer existed.

“We had been together six years,” says Mann, “and we were having problems. So, when is a time convenient for a divorce?” The album, called “Up Periscope,” was issued anyway and has done well, he says.

“It’s been six months,and I’m working on putting together a new group, called the Butcher Shop, so it isn’t as if I’ve disappeared,” he says. Although he owns the name El Groupo Sexo, “I’ve retired it. The name was really a joke to begin with; we were making fun of all the bands that were capitalizing on sex. We had none in the act, so what’s more outrageous than giving yourself a pseudo Spanish name for ‘the Sex Group?’ ”

And, while not outrageous, except in the slang sense, Mann’s menu selections also lean toward the exotic--rather off-beat Chinese, French and Catalonian dishes, such as the rabbit with aiolo he shared with Guys & Galleys. It is from the Catalonia area of Spain, and be warned: If you don’t like garlic, you might want to turn the page.

Aiolo is a mayonnaise-like sauce made of egg yolks, olive oil and a lot of crushed garlic. It is, Mann says, usually served on the plate with the fried rabbit and a vegetable and used as a dip for either. “If you add a few tablespoons of fresh lemon juice, it’s also great with fish,” he says.

“I generally serve steamed asparagus and hot French bread with the rabbit and I can tell you the sauce tastes great on bread, too. Just clean your plate with it.”

Mann got into food preparation because he missed his mother’s cooking. “She’s a great cook, and I grew up with all this marvelous and exotic food, all either done by or supervised by her. When I moved out of the house, I discovered I couldn’t find those same dishes anywhere else, so I started calling home for recipes.

“Just like with my music, I found I screwed up a lot, but finally with a little experience and lots of practice, also just like with my music, it all finally came together.”

RABBIT WITH AIOLO

Rabbit Ingredients

1 rabbit, cleaned and cut into pieces

2 pinches thyme

1/2 teaspoon each, salt and pepper

Flour for dredging

Olive oil for frying Preparation

Combine flour, thyme and salt and pepper. Heat oil to medium high. Dredge each piece of rabbit in flour, shake off excess and fry until golden brown. Reduce heat to lowest, cover and cook for 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until done, turning occasionally.

Aiolo Ingredients

2 egg yolks

6-10 garlic cloves, crushed

1 1/2 cups olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt Preparation

Beat yolks with garlic, salt and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in blender or with electric hand mixer. On lowest speed, add remaining oil in slow, steady stream and continue mixing until sauce has consistency of mayonnaise. Chill for at least one hour before serving.

Serve with sauce on side with steamed asparagus and French bread.

See related story on Jason Mann and El Grupo Sexo in today’s Calendar Section.