Tried-and-True List of Basic Garden Tools

It is surprising how many gardeners have tools that do not work or that they don’t need. The cycle seems to go something like this: When first beginning, they never have the right tool. They try to turn the soil with a shovel and rake out rocks with a green plastic thing made for leaves.

They buy some tools, but then discover that they themselves are stronger than they had thought, or that they don’t make things like they used to--shovels bend, rakes break.

But as gardeners get better, they look for better tools and accumulate some of them. Many are gadgets--a weeder that works better than any other, a dozen different sprayers for insecticides. In time, they realize that the tool shed, garage or back porch is full of tools, most collecting dust.

They then probably come to the conclusion that these are all the tools they really need:

--A sturdy, flat-bladed spade. It is not a shovel; its blade is usually 18 inches long and nearly flat. The spade is for preparing the soil where gardeners just want to turn it, not move it. It’s also for digging up and dividing plants. Gardeners can sharpen its edge with a file so it cuts through clumps of perennials, sod or roots.

--A shovel. This is for moving dirt--around the garden, out of a hole.

--A spading fork. If a gardener is not going to rent a tiller, this is for mixing amendments and soil. With it, you can break up clods by hitting them with the back of the fork.

--A one-piece steel rake. Rakes are usually the first tool to break, so look for one forged from a single piece of steel. Look for weld marks--there shouldn’t be any. A rake will have short tines for removing rocks; use the back side for leveling and smoothing the soil.

--A leaf rake. This may be steel or bamboo with long, flexible tines, for general cleaning up.

--A hoe. Still the quickest way to weed. There are many gadget hoes, but most are just that. Instead, get a plain, old-fashioned Dutch hoe.

--A cultivating fork. This looks like a narrow rake, and, used carefully, it helps loosen crusty soils. It also can be a menace to the garden; gardeners should not dig more than an inch deep or they can damage plant roots.

--A watering can. Nothing fancy is needed to keep nursery plants watered until they are planted and for applying liquid fertilizers.

--A trowel. For planting from small pots and flats. Look for one-piece construction because this tool often doubles as a pry bar when attacking weeds.

--An asparagus fork. This is the ultimate weeding tool, a dandelion’s worst enemy. Digs deep to sever roots.

--A plastic bucket. Not very romantic but keep it handy at all times, with the asparagus fork inside, for weeds. Dump the weeds in the garbage, not the compost pile.

--Pruning shears. Get a strong pair and wear them in a belt holster or keep them in the bucket. My favorite is the Corona No. 60, but other gardeners swear by other brands. I also have a pair of Corona No. 5s, which are made for edging the lawn but which I use as if they were small hedge shears to cut back perennials and other flowers.

--Hedge shears. This is the only way to prune hedges short of using a power tool, but they’re also handy for shaping shrubs into less formal shapes that can’t be done with power tools.

--Pruning saw. I use the one sold by Sears with a curved, replaceable blade and sharp teeth; it goes on the end of the aluminum pole when I can’t quite reach. A wood pole is safer around power lines, but heavy.

--Gloves. When I feel the blisters coming or when it’s time to deal with roses, I put on gloves. I just received a pair made of cotton, covered with some miracle space-age coating that makes them impervious to thorns but fairly supple. They’re called Garden Handy and are at most nurseries.

--A small tank sprayer. It is not necessary to have a big tank for dispensing insecticides, or a hose-end sprayer; that’s because gardeners who are doing everything else right should not need to spray that much. In fact, little spray bottles already filled with insecticide are about the right size.

--Measuring spoons. Don’t use the same teaspoon to stir the coffee and measure insecticides. An accurate measure, however, is required.

--A tote. Something to carry all the small tools in is handy, though I usually toss them in the bucket. Once I dumped a good pair of shears in the garbage along with the weeds.

Most of these tools are quite ordinary and can be found at nurseries or hardware stores. But spend the money to get good ones that last. There are many grades, and some discount places simply don’t carry the better end. Try to avoid anything that’s welded--always look for one-piece, forged construction.

Most of these implements can be found in mail order catalogues, but I am unimpressed with the fancy European tools I have tried. They often are too short, require too much care (wood handles, blades that rust overnight) and are hard to sharpen. If you must turn to mail order, these are good sources, but beware of the gadgets:

Walter F. Nicke, McLeod Lane, Box 433, Topsfield, Mass. 01983.

Smith & Hawkins, 25 Corte Madera, Mill Valley, Calif. 94941.

Clapper’s, 1125 Washington St., West Newton, Mass. 02165.

Gardener’s Supply, 128 Intervale Road, Burlington, Vt. 05401.