Prince Edward Island Can Make Campers Happy

Prince Edward Island, a land of rolling hills and beautiful beaches in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, offers economical B&Bs;, a nice selection of camping sites, good cycling areas and an easy-paced, friendly country atmosphere.

Canada’s smallest province, Prince Edward Island is a 45-minute ferry ride from the New Brunswick coast ($2.40 Canadian for adults and $1 for bikes) or a 75-minute ferry ride from Nova Scotia.

Charlottetown has 18,000 residents and the province’s only youth hostel. The clean, bright, barn-style building is at 153 Mount Edward Road, phone (902) 894-9696. Members are charged $8 (about $6.50 U.S.) and non-members $10 for dormitory lodgings. There’s a midnight curfew.

When you arrive, drop by the visitor information center on University Avenue, or call (902) 892-2457. Free services include a city walking tour map, advice on the province’s sights and transportation and a reservation service that can book many of the campsites, cabins and guest houses.

Good Deals for Couples

Some of the best deals in the province are the B&B; accommodations for couples. Of the 85 homes that welcome visitors, most offer double rooms for $25 Canadian or less a night.

One of the most popular areas to visit is Prince Edward Island National Park, a 25-mile coastal stretch of beaches, sand dunes, red cliffs and marshes. It also offers interpretive programs, slide shows, a golf course (greens fees reduced after 3 p.m.), tennis courts and three campgrounds. Tent sites average $10 to $14.

Public transportation is limited; schedules are available at visitor information centers. You can reach several points in the park from Charlottetown on Abegweit Tours’ double-decker buses for $5 one way or $7 round trip.

Because of its size and beautiful scenery, the island attracts a lot of young cyclists. There are some difficulties, though; it’s hilly inland and “you trade off short distances for potholes,” as one cyclist points out. That’s a problem caused by the soft red earth. Your best bet is to get route advice from a cycling shop.

Two good areas are the southeast (the Trans-Canada Highway has a paved shoulder wide enough for cyclists) and the national park. (There is an extra-wide paved shoulder all along the coastal road.) Bike rentals cost $12 a day, $40 a week.

Beach-Front Parks

Forty of the campgrounds are private and 15 of the 31 provincial parks offer camping. Most provincial parks are beach-front, and several offer special interpretive programs.

When you feel like splurging, take in a lobster dinner. Church halls and community centers offer the nightly feasts for $15 to $23. It’s a good way to meet a mix of visitors and residents.

Deep-sea fishing doesn’t have to be expensive. In North Rustico I found that visitors are welcome on the boats for three-hour afternoon trips for $10. The captain will clean some of the catch and let you take it home; he keeps the rest.

The Cavendish area is a tourist town complete with theme parks and a wax museum. Thirsty’s and Gilligan’s Landing are places where you’ll find night life. This year Gilligan’s Landing, on the edge of town, will provide patrons with free round-trip transportation from campgrounds. For information, call (902) 963-3333.

Many young visitors (especially cyclists) also spend several days on Quebec’s Magdalen Islands. About 5% of the 15,000 inhabitants speak English. You can get there by taking a five-hour, $24 ferry ride (plus $6.70 per bike) from Souris, Prince Edward Island. Seven of the 12 islands are joined by long, thin sand dunes.

For more information on travel to Prince Edward Island, contact Visitors Services, P.O. Box 940, Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada CIA 7M5.