World Travel Watch : Philippines a Paradise for the Careful Tourist

World Travel Watch is a monthly report designed to help you make informed judgments about travel throughout the world. Because conditions can change overnight, always make your own inquiries before leaving home. In the United States contact the nearest passport agency office; abroad, check in with the nearest American embassy.

Two and a half years after Corazon Aquino’s miraculous rise to power, the Philippines still faces many serious challenges: Corruption is creeping back into high levels of government; street crime and political violence has increased in Manila; poverty still grips as much as two-thirds of the population; insurgencies continue, and no consensus has emerged about the American military bases agreement.

Despite these challenges, the Philippines remains one of the most alluring and accessible Asian countries for Western travelers. It is a place of paradise islands with perfect beaches and some of the world’s best diving, of volcanoes and rugged mountains, of giddy night life and the tranquil life of the provinces, and an irrepressible people as friendly and welcoming as any in the world.

English is spoken throughout the islands, the result of the country’s long shared history with the United States. The dollar is still strong there, and although nationalism is on the rise, any anti-American feelings vanish immediately on a personal level. American travelers are still treated very warmly.

Several precautions should be taken in Manila. When arriving at the airport be sure to take a bona fide taxi or hotel limousine. The limousine will cost three times as much as a cab, but the convenience may be worth it. If you take a cab, register with the official at the taxi stand, and set the price or insist on the meter being used before you go. Unsuspecting foreigners and returning Filipinos have been lured into private cars and robbed after a short ride.

Around the city, use hotel cabs or Golden taxis. Change money at banks or in legitimate currency exchange offices; people who approach you on the street are very good at their trade and will shortchange you. Use common sense precautions against street crime, and avoid public transit late at night.

Manila, with its busy streets and tantalizing night life, is one Philippine reality, but the provinces are another world. Eager children will routinely greet foreigners with “Hi, Joe!” or “Hi, friend!” and the quiet, slow pace of life is an experience not to be missed. Most of the major tourist destinations are safe, but several places should be avoided because of the insurgencies and other criminal activity.

Avoid the Sulu Archipelago, Samar Island, the province of Kalinga Apayao, the Cagayan Valley in Cagayan and Isabela provinces, and most of the island of Mindanao except the cities of Cagayan de Oro, Davao, General Santos, Iligan and Zamboanga.

Use special care when traveling in other areas of Luzon, especially Abra, Ifugao, Mountain Province, Quezon Province and all of Luzon south of Lucena City except Legaspi City.

Travelers going to Banaue or Sagada are advised to go with a group. Avoid vehicles carrying military personnel (soldiers often ride public buses) because they could become targets for ambush. Avoid road travel at night in rural areas and always use national highways.

If traveling to the islands of Leyte, Negros or Panay, stay within the urban areas of cities reached by regular air service. The economy is gradually improving, although the country hasn’t yet seen the major investment it needs. The mood is cautiously optimistic, a wait-and-see attitude, while the posture is that everything’s OK. Many think the government is on the right track, but much needs to be done.

Still, the Philippines has a lure which is hard to resist. There is something electric in the air in Manila, something intoxicating in the smiles in the provinces. It is a heartwarming land, not without problems, but full of magic.

Following are updates worldwide:

Asia

--Hong Kong: Hawkers, the colorful street vendors who have been offering an exotic variety of cooked food since the Crown colony’s founding, are gradually disappearing, victims of health department policy and a changing way of life. Hong Kong has issued no new cooked-food licenses to street vendors in 15 years, and most vendors now own stalls in covered markets where health inspectors closely monitor hygiene. The government’s long-term goal is to relocate all hawker stalls into these covered markets.

--Nepal: Tyangboche Monastery, a popular stop along the trekking route to the Everest base camp, now has electrical power thanks to a hydro project financed by the San Francisco-based American Himalayan Foundation.

--Pakistan: Dacoits (bandits) continue to operate with impunity in remote areas of Sind province. Avoid road travel at night, and stay out of deserted parts of town in urban areas. Communal strife in Karachi and Hyderabad has increased in recent months. Exercise caution.

Africa

--Ethiopia: The continuing civil war in Tigre and Eritrea has made much of the country off-limits to travelers and foreign-aid workers. The only legal entry point is Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa. Travel outside Shoa province must be approved in advance, and such approval is not often granted.

Visitors traveling outside Addis Ababa must be accompanied by a National Tourist Organization guide and must pay the guide’s expenses. Because of tight security, ask permission before using a camera or binoculars. Expect difficulties if trying to enter or leave the country with a video camera, even if a permit has been issued in advance. A midnight-to-5 a.m. curfew remains in effect in Addis Ababa.

--Ghana: Specific laws regulate currency exchange and the sale, purchase or possession of gold, diamonds and other natural resources, plus narcotics and firearms. Exchange currency only through banks or foreign exchange bureaus. All natural resource and farm commodity transactions must be handled through official organizations; dealing with private individuals is illegal.

Wearing any military apparel is strictly prohibited. Jail conditions can be harsh, and embassy notification is often delayed. Travelers detained for any reason should make every effort to contact the American Embassy, whether by direct request through authorities or by asking friends, acquaintances or passers-by. If not visited by a consular officer within 36 hours, assume that the request was not delivered, and keep trying.

Mediterranean/Mideast

--Corsica: The Corsican National Liberation Front, which for 10 years has been waging a terrorist campaign against French government control there, has declared a summer truce to last until the end of September. Some believe the truce was called to avoid disrupting the tourist season; others that the organization has splintered and morale is low. Whatever the cause, the pause in violence is good news for visitors.

--Cyprus: Although government policy is subject to change, at this time it is not possible to cross the border between the northern, Turkish Cypriot-controlled region, and the southern, Greek Cypriot-controlled area. The only legal ports of entry in the south are Larnaca and Paphos International airports and the seaports of Larnaca, Limassol and Paphos.

--Jordan: Royal Jordanian Airlines has banned smoking on its Amman-Damascus and Amman-Aqaba flights, the first such ban in the Middle East.

Europe

--Italy: In an effort to reduce the death toll on Italy’s superhighways during the busy tourist season, the government has reduced the speed limit from 87 to 68 m.p.h. The new law will be in effect until Sept. 11.

Southeast Asia

--Burma: Due to recent student unrest, the capital city of Rangoon was placed under martial law indefinitely last Wednesday.

Burma Airways Corp. has had three fatal crashes on its domestic routes in the last year, all during the rainy season, with bad weather a factor. Consider traveling by train during the rainy season, mid-May through October.

Medical note: A simple, fast and inexpensive screening test for the AIDS virus has been developed that should substantially increase the safety of blood transfusions in developing countries.