A Walk Through History Amid Cliffs, Coves, Caves

Geographically, the Palos Verdes bluffs and beaches resemble the Channel Islands. Geologists say that before the Ice Age, the peninsula was an island, separated from the rest of the Los Angeles basin by the sea.

However, toward the end of the last glacial period the 18-mile-long peninsula was connected to the mainland by masses of sediment discharged from the mountains to the north.

The peninsula is famous for its rocky cliffs, which rise 50 to 300 feet above the ocean, and for its 13 wave-cut terraces. These terraces, or platforms, resulted from a combination of uplift and sea-level fluctuations caused by the formation and melting of glaciers.

Today, the waves, as they have for so many thousands of years, are eroding the shoreline, cutting yet another terrace onto the land.

Large Kettles Found

While enjoying this walk, you’ll pass many beautiful coves, where whaling ships once anchored and delivered their cargo of whale oil. Large iron kettles, used to boil whale blubber, have been found in sea-cliff caves.

Indians, Spanish rancheros and Yankee smugglers all have added to the peninsula’s history.

Modern times have brought white-stuccoed, red-tiled mansions to the peninsula bluffs. Offshore, divers explore the rocky bottoms for abalone and shellfish. On shore, hikers enjoy the wave-scalloped bluffs and splendid tide pools.

Wear sturdy shoes on this walk. Hiking this beach is like walking over a surface of broken bowling balls. The route is rocky and progress is slow, but that gives you more time to look down at the tide pools and up at the magnificent bluffs.

Check the tide table in The Times and walk only at low tide.

Directions to trailhead: The narrow, rocky Palos Verdes beaches can be reached by a number of unofficial access points along Paseo del Mar. To reach the Malaga Cove trailhead, take Pacific Coast Highway to Palos Verdes Boulevard south. Bear right on Palos Verdes Drive. As you near Malaga Cove Plaza, turn right at the first stop sign (Via Corta). Make a right on Via Arroyo, then another right into the parking lot behind Malaga Cove School.

The trailhead is on the ocean side of the parking area where a wide path descends the bluffs above the Flat Rock Point tide pools. A footpath leaves from Paseo del Mar, 1/10th mile past Via Horcada, where the street curves east to join Palos Verdes Drive West.

The Hike: From the Malaga Cove School parking lot, descend the wide path to the beach. A sign indicates that you’re entering a seashore reserve and asks you to treat tide-pool residents with respect. To the north are sandy beaches for sedentary sun worshipers. Active rock hoppers clamber to the south.

At several places along this walk you’ll notice that the great terraces are cut by steep-walled canyons. The first of these canyon incisions can be observed at Malaga Cove, where Malaga Canyon slices through the north slopes of Palos Verdes Hills, then cuts west to empty at the cove.

The coastline curves out to sea in a southwesterly direction, and Flat Rock Point comes into view. The jade-colored waters swirl around this anvil-shaped point, creating the best tide-pool area along this section of coast. Above the point, the cliffs soar to 300 feet. Cloaked in the morning fog, the rocky seascape here is reminiscent of Big Sur.

Rounding Flat Rock Point, you pick your way among the rocks, seaweed and flotsam and jetsam of civilization to Bluff Cove, where sparkling combers explode against the rocks and douse the unwary with their tangy spray.

A glance over your right shoulder brings a view of Santa Monica Bay, the Santa Monica Mountains in gray silhouette and, on the far horizon, the Channel Islands.

A mile beyond Bluff Cove, Rocky (also called Palos Verdes) Point juts out like a ship’s prow. Caught fast on the rocks at the base of the point is the rusting exoskeleton of the Greek freighter Dominator, a victim of the treacherous reef surrounding the peninsula.

Around Rocky Point is Lunada Bay, a good place to observe the terrace surfaces. From here you will walk under almost perpendicular cliffs that follow horseshoe-shaped Lunada Bay. Shortly you’ll round Resort Point, where fishermen try their luck. As the coastline turns south, Catalina often can be seen on the horizon. Along this stretch of shoreline, many stacks, remnants of former cliffs not yet dissolved by the surf, can be seen.

The Lighthouse

The stretch of coast before the lighthouse has been vigorously scalloped by thousands of years of relentless surf. You’ll have to boulder-hop the last mile to Point Vicente. The lighthouse has worked its beacon over the dark waters since 1926. Though the public is not allowed on lighthouse grounds, you can get a good view of it from the Interpretive Center, where information on the area is available. Information: (213) 377-5370.

Passage often is impossible around the lighthouse at high tide; if passable, another half-mile of walking brings you to an official beach access (or departure) route at Long Point.

Palos Verdes Peninsula Trail

Malaga Cove to Rocky Point: 5 miles round trip Malaga Cove to Point Vicente Lighthouse: 10 miles round trip.