Abu Dhabi’s Fine Hoteliers Offer a Variety of International Cuisines : Adventurous Dining on the Persian Gulf

You’re on Paradise Beach overlooking a crystal-clear turquoise sea. The gentle breeze rustles the fringes of palmed ramadas and there is the smell of tortillas wafting under your nose.

No, no, no. We’re not in Mazatlan. We are in Abu Dhabi, 12 time zones from Los Angeles--a world away. And somewhere, back in the kitchen at the Abu Dhabi Sheraton, which stands on Paradise Beach, somebody is cooking Mexican.

Abu Dhabi, you might already know, is the capital of the United Arab Emirates (often referred to as UAE), which consists of seven sheikdoms or states in the southeast corner of the Arabian Peninsula. Here, 2.4% of the world’s oil is pumped.

The land is desert-bare, the color of mustard as far as the eye can see, but there are some of the cleanest streets in the Arab world, and the most progressively modern architecture exists in major cities such as Abu Dhabi, a city of glass and steel built in a day, so to speak, after a millennium of desert sleep.

Modern Hotels

At night, modern hotels and wealthy sheiks’ villas cast shimmering lights along a coastline overlooking the Persian Gulf, where some of the best gulf shrimp, lobster and hammour, a white fish indigenous to gulf waters, are caught.

The local cuisine of the UAE, which consists largely of dates, lamb and rice, is eclipsed by the culinary diversity spawned by the heavily heterogeneous immigrant population that makes up the major work force in the growing metropolis. Pakistanis, Indians and Sri Lankans, who form the largest work force, dominate. But there are Lebanese, Egyptians, Palestinians, Sudanese, Filipinos, Japanese, Koreans, Britishers, Italians and other European groups, among almost every other nationality around the world, who have helped, within the last 10 years, to double the population of the small sheikdom to its present 1.1 million in an area about the size of Indiana.

Whatever native cuisine there might exist is usually found in Arab homes and a few small local cafes, where foreigners rarely go, partially because of the language barrier and also because of the lack of alcoholic beverages in restaurants outside of international hotels, in adherence to restrictions of the Islamic religion.

The land known today as UAE was already being fought over during the time of Alexander the Great, which was centuries before the spread of Islam to the area more than 1,000 years ago.

Portugal, which controlled much of the trade routes to the Far East in the 16th Century, set up several military forts in the area. By 1617, the British East India company had staked its claim and Britain dominated until the 20th Century, when the door on colonial rule was finally slammed shut. Nomads who inhabited the desert lived by the rules dictated by nature in their quest for food and comforts. The staples of survival remained simple--dates eaten for sustenance, while meat and rice and fruit remained luxuries.

The discovery of oil in the area after World War II brought with it the new waves of culinary influences from around the world, providing inhabitants with as much diversity of dining possibilities as one might find anywhere in the United States.

Most hotels in Abu Dhabi offer a variety of cuisines to suit the influx of international businessmen and women who work year-round on the peninsula. It is the practice of foreigners away from home to while away lonely hours by hopping from hotel restaurant to hotel restaurant, from one bar to another.

For instance, you might start out with white cheese and olive appetizers at the Hotel Meridian’s Lebanese restaurant, then progress to the Hotel Intercontinental for some French appetizers from the French restaurant, then to the Hilton Hotel for some Japanese sushi, and end up at the Sheraton for an authentic Chinese meal prepared by chefs imported from Shanghai or, more likely, at El Sombrero for fajitas and guacamole.

Exemplary Food

El Sombrero at the Abu Dhabi Sheraton is one of the most popular eating spots on the peninsula, not because the food is exemplary, which it is, considering that every scrap of food except fish and dairy products must be imported, but because of its easy, friendly atmosphere; it’s a place to let go of a hard day away from comforting family and friends.

Business at the cafe is its briskest and bawdiest after 9 p.m. A singing group of Filipinos croons Mexican ballads in English accents not quite authentic. The hard drinkers never make it to dinner, but the lighter drinkers settle down to a table for conversation over appetizers, guacamole and ceviche, or a good, hearty Mexican carne asada . Others may choose the specialty of the house, the Sombrero Club Steak, in which marinated grilled steak is topped with onion sauce and served with deep-fried onion rings.

The Sheraton’s Mexican kitchen, in fact, was developed by the wives of local businessmen commissioned by the chef to come up with standard dishes as well as the decor.

The wife most commended for her culinary contributions is Mara Price, a native of Mexico, who helped train the kitchen staff and who scanned the marketplace for ingredients that would duplicate those found in Mexico. Chiles, cilantro and many of the spices were easily found because of their use in Indian and Arabic cuisines. Ingredients not found were imported from abroad. Tortillas, for instance, were brought from London.

Luckily, there are no limitations on food imports to Abu Dhabi. “We can get just about anything from anywhere,” said Willy Optekamp, the director of the Abu Dhabi Sheraton.

Oysters and turbot come from Norwegian waters. Beef and lamb come from Scotland and France, Tiger prawns arrive from Indonesia, vegetables via Jordan, Lebanon and Syria as well as Kenya, Sudan and Turkey. However, dairy products from German cows are produced in the neighboring emirate of Al Quwain.

The menu at El Sombrero, however, is a simple one, with tacos, enchiladas, burritos and fajitas. There is a very good guacamole and an excellent beef tostada; the steaks (rib eye and sirloin) are grilled and served with baked potatoes.

Potato Skins on Menu

Potato skins have filtered into the menu, and so have spare ribs in barbecue sauce for those who crave the American favorites. The Mexican carne asada comes with beans, rice and flour tortillas.

The recipes have undergone changes in the many hands called upon to operate the kitchens since the days of Price’s recipe development, but here are some of the latest versions, including a recipe for fajitas and mangoes laced with tequila.

The ceviche is made with local hammour from the Arabian Gulf, which closely resembles monkfish (or lotte in French), but almost any firm, white-fleshed fish can be used.

The Sombrero Club Steak, which calls for marinating the meat for 20 minutes before grilling, is served with chile con carne, salad and French fries.

MARGARITA

1 jigger tequila

1/2 jigger Triple Sec

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon sugar syrup

1 rounded tablespoon crushed ice

2 lemon slices

Salt

Combine tequila, Triple Sec, lemon juice, sugar syrup and ice in blender. Mix 1 to 2 minutes. Rub lemon slice around rim of Champagne saucer glass and dip in salt. Pour Margarita in glass. Garnish with lemon slice. Makes 1 serving.

GUACAMOLE

1 avocado, peeled and finely chopped

1 medium tomato, finely chopped

1 medium white onion, finely chopped

2 to 3 green chiles, minced

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt

Combine avocado, tomato, onion, chiles, lemon juice and salt to taste. Makes about 2 cups dip.

ABU DHABI CEVICHE (Marinated Raw Fish)

5 to 6 ounces fresh firm-fleshed fish, cut in cubes

1 medium tomato, finely diced

2 jalapeno chiles, thinly sliced

1 medium onion, finely diced

Few sprigs cilantro, thinly sliced

Juice of 2 lemons

Salt

Lettuce leaves, sliced

3 avocados, halved, seeded and peeled

4 lemon wedges

1 sprig parsley

Combine fish with tomato, chiles, onion and cilantro. Drizzle with lemon juice and sprinkle with salt to taste. Marinate 6 to 8 hours in refrigerator. Place sliced lettuce on plates and top with avocado half. Fill avocado halves with marinated fish. Garnish with lemon wedges and parsley. Makes 6 servings.

FAJITAS SOMBRERO

1/2 pound beef filet

1 cup olive oil

1/3 cup vinegar

2 teaspoons oregano

5 cloves garlic, crushed

8 black peppercorns, crushed

1 medium onion, sliced

1/2 tomato

1 tablespoon oil

Onion Sauce

Chili Sauce

1 tablespoon sour cream

1 tablespoon Guacamole

2 flour tortillas

3 to 4 chopped lettuce leaves

Marinate beef filet in olive oil, vinegar, oregano, garlic, peppercorns and 1/2 onion 8 hours in refrigerator. Remove onion and garlic and grill meat 5 to 8 minutes on each side, depending on thickness, turning occasionally.

Cut meat into thin strips and add tomato and remaining 1/2 onion cut into strips. Saute beef, tomatoes and onion in 1 tablespoon hot oil until sizzling. Add 1/4 cup Onion Sauce and 1 teaspoon Chili Sauce to meat mixture.

To serve, place chopped lettuce on side of plate and top with sour cream. Add Guacamole beside lettuce and place fajitas next to sour cream with tortilla. Makes 2 servings.

Onion Sauce

1 onion, chopped

1 tablespoon butter

1/4 teaspoon paprika

2 teaspoons flour

Dash ground cumin

2 cups beef broth

Saute onion in butter until tender. Add paprika, flour, cumin and mix until smooth. Add beef stock and stir until smooth. Bring to boil and boil 20 minutes. Blend until smooth. Makes 1 2/3 cups.

Chili Sauce

1/4 pound red chiles

10 cloves garlic

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons tomato juice

Salt

Roast chiles. Split and remove seeds. Blend chiles with garlic, tomato juice and salt to taste. Makes 2 1/4 cups.

SOMBRERO CLUB STEAK

1 cup corn oil

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon paprika

4 cloves crushed garlic

1/2 medium white onion, sliced

Dash cayenne pepper

4 to 6 (1/2-pound) sirloin steaks

Pepper Sauce

Chili Con Carne

Combine oil, mustard, paprika, garlic, onion and Cayenne in shallow container large enough to hold steak. Place steak over marinade and turn to coat well. Marinate meat at least 20 minutes.

Grill over medium hot coals or under broiler about 4 inches from source of heat until cooked to desired doneness on both sides. Pour Pepper Sauce over meat. Serve with fried onion rings and chili con carne, if desired. Makes 6 servings.

Pepper Sauce

2 tablespoons corn oil

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 onion, chopped

2 1/2 cups chopped fresh mushrooms

3 1/2 ounces green peppercorns

1/4 cup brandy

1 cup red wine

2 cups Brown Sauce

1 cup whipping cream

Salt

Heat oil with butter until butter melts. Add black peppercorns and saute 1 minute. Add onion, mushrooms and green peppercorns and saute until almost dry in pan.

Add brandy, heat and flame. Allow flames to die down. Add red wine and cook until reduced to glaze. Add Brown Sauce and cook through. Stir in whipping cream and season to taste with salt.

Brown Sauce

4 shallots, minced

2 cups dry white wine

3 tablespoons brown meat glaze (Bovril)

2 quarts beef broth or half beef broth and half water

Cook shallots in white wine until wine is reduced to glaze. Stir in brown meat glaze and gradually stir in beef broth. Cook over high heat until liquid is reduced by almost half. Makes 1 quart plus 1/4 cup liquid.

Chili Con Carne

2 tablespoons corn oil

5 to 10 black peppercorns, crushed

1 large onion, chopped

1 jalapeno chile

1 pound top round beef, finely diced

1/2 cup soy sauce

Worcestershire sauce

1/2 pound pinto beans or black-eyed peas, cooked

Beef broth or water, optional

Heat oil until very hot. Add 5 to 10 black peppercorns, depending on taste, onion, chile and beef and saute about 2 to 3 minutes or until meat is browned. Add soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce to taste and cooked beans with liquid. If more liquid is needed add beef stock or water. Reheat. Makes 6 servings.

MANGOES LACED WITH TEQUILA

3 mangoes

1 jigger Tequila or to taste

Shredded coconut

Peel and slice mangoes. Arrange attractively on platter. Drizzle with Tequila. Sprinkle with coconut. Makes 4 to 6 servings.