Dining in London : How an Afternoon Ritual Was Refined to a Tea

Admired, misunderstood and exploited, afternoon tea in London can be a delightful, relaxing respite in a hectic day.

Attesting to the popularity of afternoon tea are such establishments as The Ritz, which takes reservations days in advance for one of two sittings an afternoon. And once at the hotel, guests with reservations may mill about in the lobby waiting for tables.

One afternoon, after munching slightly dry sandwiches among the throngs at The Ritz, we resolved to find tea served as it should be.

First, some definitions may be in order. What most Americans think of as “high tea” is really “afternoon tea.” High tea is a light supper and usually includes one or two hot dishes--a Welsh rarebit, perhaps--cold chicken, salads, fresh fruit, breads and sweets.

High tea is a custom practiced more in the countryside of the north of England than in London.

Traditional afternoon tea begins with small sandwiches of watercress, cucumber, egg salad, salmon, chicken or tomato.

Then come scones--rich biscuits usually baked with currants. These are served with strawberry preserves and either whipped double cream or clotted cream from Devon or Somerset. Clotted cream has the consistency of soft butter and, to us, ranks as one of the great culinary treats of all time.

Finally comes a pastry--a piece of cake, perhaps, or a Napoleon or eclair. It is perfectly proper to only order what you want, instead of a full tea.

Begun in the 18th Century by Anna, seventh Duchess of Bedford, afternoon tea flourished in Victorian England and today is a national pastime.

“Coffeehouses were more popular in England in the early 1600s,” said Anne Penberthy, co-owner with husband Robin of Butlers’ Tea & Coffee Co.. “But tea overcame coffee in popularity in the 18th Century. After all, we had the colonies that had the tea.”

Butler’s on Rupert Street near Leicester Square is one of the most pleasant tea places we found. Named for Butler’s Wharf where cargoes of tea and coffee used to be unloaded, Butler’s is a small, cozy shop with wood-paneled walls lined with huge jars of tea from China, Japan, India and Sri Lanka.

We sat at one of the shop’s two marble-topped tables and sampled a couple of the 75 varieties of tea offered: Darjeeling Quality Leaf, rich-flavored and aromatic, and a light Orange Pekoe.

“The Darjeeling Quality Leaf comes from one particular garden,” Penberthy said when she brought our tea service on small trays. A dish of candied walnuts accompanied each pot.

“But each tea has its own distinctive characteristics. Earl Grey, for instance, has the recognizable flavor of oil of bergamot, and Lapsang Souchong has a smoky taste,” she said.

Although rare Darjeelings are fashionable and Earl Grey is one of the most popular teas, today the range is almost infinite. Rare green teas from China are the most expensive, often selling for more than $100 per pound. Certain Darjeelings are not much below that, and other rare teas costs $40 to $50 a pound.

No matter what type of tea is used, for the best flavor, loose tea should be used--never a bag--and a specific brewing technique should be followed.

“Always boil fresh, cold water. Take the teapot to the water so that it loses as little boil as possible,” Penberthy said.

“Only very hot water can create the proper infusion and release all the flavor in the leaves. Use a teaspoonful of loose tea per cup, and one for the pot. Let it brew three to five minutes, then serve.

“You should warm the pot with hot water before putting in the tea, and a separate pot of hot water should be served for further diluting, if desired.

“Ideally, the tea should be transferred to another warm pot when brewing is complete so it doesn’t become bitter. The pot can be kept warm with a tea cozy,” Penberthy said.

Proper service should include the teapot, hot water pot, strainer, milk, lemon and sugar. While many Americans enjoy lemon with their tea, most Britons drink tea with milk, and the milk is traditionally poured into the cup before the tea.

“That custom started because early porcelain tea cups were very delicate and it was feared that the very hot liquid might crack the china,” Penberthy said.

The following tea places are recommended:

Brown’s Hotel, Albemarle & Dover Street. Afternoon tea served 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., 8.50 (about $15 U.S.). Tea is served in cozy rooms off the lobby. Sofas and wood-paneled walls create a living room atmosphere, which a fireplace warms in winter. Quality tea and service in an unhurried setting. Jacket and tie required for men.

Butlers, 26 Rupert St., open 8:45 a.m. to 8 p.m., Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday, noon to 8 p.m. Sunday.

This tiny shop offers more than 75 varieties of tea, including herb teas, and 25 coffees. A pot of tea costs 80 pence (about $1.40 U.S.), an individual cafetiere of coffee 90 pence. Such snacks as rolls (40 pence), assorted cheeses (35 pence), croissants (35 pence), shortbread (1 pound) and Jamaican rum cake (60 pence) are offered all day. The location in the West End makes it a good bet for a pre-theater snack, and it’s one of the few places in London that serves brewed decaffeinated coffee.

The Draycott, 24-26 Cadogan Gardens. Afternoon tea served 3 to 5 p.m., 5.50 for “The Draycott Tea,” 3 for tea and scones.

This delightful small hotel opened last summer in a restored Victorian townhouse near Sloane Square. Tea is served in a comfortable living room with a view of the garden. It’s a convenient stop if you’ve been shopping in Knightsbridge.

Sandwiches of fresh tomato and chicken with lettuce are standouts, as is a rich chocolate cake.

Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly. Afternoon and high tea served 3 to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday, 3 to 4:30 p.m. on Saturday. Afternoon tea is 5.50.

High tea--offering scones, pastry, a salad and a choice of such dishes as Welsh rarebit, quiche Lorraine or sardines on toast--costs 7.50. Skip the crowded downstairs restaurant and make the journey upstairs to the third-floor dining room. There it’s peaceful, the tea is excellent and the service friendly and efficient.

Buttered crumpets (sort of like English muffins with holes in them) or toast may be ordered instead of scones. A pianist or string ensemble plays soothing melodies.

Hyatt Carlton Tower, 2 Cadogan Place, Knightsbridge. Afternoon tea served 3 to 5:30 p.m., 7.50.Served in the Chinoiserie, an elegant lobby lounge, this afternoon tea is one of the best in London.

Sandwiches are freshly made, pastries are high quality and a variety of teas are offered. A harpist supplies music for guests including Sloane Rangers (London yuppies) and diplomats from neighboring Belgravia.

Hyde Park Hotel, Knightsbridge. Afternoon tea served 4 to 6 p.m., 8.50. Crystal chandeliers hang from the ceiling, and blue silk draperies frame the tall windows that let one look out onto Hyde Park.

It’s a lovely setting for a service that includes 12 varieties of tea, good sandwiches and an assortment of pastries; a good stop after shopping just across the street at Harrods.

Le Meridien, Piccadilly. Afternoon tea served 3 to 6 p.m., 7.25. With 30 varieties of tea offered in a service that includes sandwiches, scones and French pastries made by the hotel’s Gallic chefs, this is one of the best.

A harpist plays in the elegant oak-paneled lounge. The Meridien’s location just off Piccadilly Circus makes it a perfect place for a tea break between Bond Street shopping and West End theater.

The Ritz, Piccadilly. Two seatings daily at 3:15 p.m. and 4:30 p.m., 9.50. Made famous in countless stories, The Ritz is suffering from its own popularity. Booking ahead is essential.

There were dry sandwiches and unremarkable scones. The only things that save the experience are the splendor of the Palm Court decor and the charm and attentiveness of maitre d’ Michael Twomey.

The Savoy, The Strand. Afternoon tea served 3:30 to 5:30 p.m., 8.25. Tea is served in the large and lavish Thames Foyer.

Art Deco mirrors line the walls and picture windows look out onto the Strand, where, in winter months, the lights along the Thames glitter at teatime. A harpist or pianist plays in the formal room.

The Stafford Hotel, St. James’s Place. Afternoon tea served 3 to 5 p.m., 8. Around the corner from its sister hotel, The Ritz, The Stafford is small and discreet.

Afternoon tea is served in a pleasant lounge where the hotel’s mascot, a big black-and-white cat named Soda (its predecessor was Whiskey) may be lounging on an overstuffed chair. The atmosphere is that of a fine London club. Service is perfect and the tea is excellent.

The Waldorf, Aldwych. Afternoon tea served 3:30 to 6:30 p.m., 8.25. Tea dances on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, 12.50. Tea dances were the rage in the 1920s, and the Waldorf has revived the tradition on weekends.

A four-piece orchestra plays in the Palm Court, an elegant sky-lit room decked with large potted palms. The Waldorf being in the heart of the West End makes tea dancing there a pre-theater treat.

The Westbury, Conduit Street, Mayfair. Afternoon tea served 3 to 5:30 p.m., 8.50. A small room where Noel Coward would be right at home, the Lounge at The Westbury is an ideal setting for an afternoon tea.