Caviar and More Caviar

OK, it’s not really a restaurant. But the people at the new Caviarteria, 247 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills,(213) 285-9773, are so friendly and so anxious to have you taste their wares that by the time you leave their shop you could feel that you’ve eaten lunch.

Ask, for instance, about the Beluga Imperial and the man behind the counter will whip out a jar and show you the huge, golden grains. “They used to call it the shah’s gold,” he’ll say, offering you a few shiny orbs to eat. It is wonderful stuff that dances across your tongue (at $50 an ounce it is also pretty pricey). He’ll be glad to demonstrate the difference between Beluga, Sevruga and Oscetra caviar, and when that lesson is learned he’ll urge you to try “Big Red”--huge grains of fresh, unsalted salmon caviar. This is another good egg--and considerably less expensive than the rest.

You might then want to compare the various sorts of smoked salmon found in the shop--that could turn into a delicious conversation. And be sure not to leave until you’ve tasted the smoked fish dip--it’s a fine strong flavor to take you out the door.