New Portugal Hostels

Although youth hostels in Portugal have increased from 14 to 18 this year, there are still far fewer than in most European countries (Germany has more than 500).

Three of Portugal’s new hostels are in the north and the other is in the popular Algarve region in the south at Portimao.

Because the Algarve has moderate year-round temperatures, hundreds of miles of beautiful beaches, and Portugal generally has cheaper prices than other European countries, it’s a popular area for young travelers.

Near a Gypsy Camp

Although the new hostel at Portimao is listed as a coastal hostel, it is really on the edge of a residential area at Lugar do Coca Maravilhas across the road from a Gypsy camp--about a mile from the center of town. The Praia Da Rocha area, where there are beautiful beaches, is several miles from town. You can reach it by taking a bus ride for 50 escudo (about 35 cents U.S.).

The hostel is a beautiful new building with skylights, solar water heaters and offers a terrific view of the countryside. It can accommodate 180 people.

Dormitory rooms are limited to four people. The rate per person is 700 escudos (about $5 U.S.) a night, breakfast included. Eight twin rooms are available for 2,500 escudos (about $18.25) per room, breakfast included.

Lunches and dinners are 350 escudos ($2.50). Guests can cook in a separate kitchen.

During the last 10 years there has been a tremendous increase in facilities for tourists. You’ll still find winding streets, whitewashed homes, colorful fishing boats, markets, dogs, and the screaming motor scooters that are a part of the Algarve. But now the number of high-rises, construction sites, English restaurants and pubs has multiplied.

Most young travelers who visit the Algarve eventually move west through Lagos to the less-developed area near Sagres.

Rail service goes as far as Lagos, a historic city 11 miles west of Portimao. Lagos was the capital of the Algarve from the 16th to the 18th Century.

Ring-Side Seat

Lagos is one of the Portuguese towns in which you can see bullfights on Saturday afternoons, April through October. (In Portugal the bulls are not killed.) Prices depend on where you sit. Seats in the sun start at 1,900 escudos (about $13.85). The shade is more expensive.

To get from Lagos to Sagres takes about an hour by bus, which runs several times a day.

In Sagres the youth hostel is within a historic landmark, the fortress that was Prince Henry’s school of navigation in the 15th Century.

When traveling in the Algarve I wasn’t always able to get complete information about transportation services at bus stations or in the offices of private companies. I discovered that it was better to get advice at a tourist information office.

I also found that commission rates for exchange dollars were extremely high. I was charged 500 escudos ($3.25) plus 45 escudos (30 cents) in tax for a transaction. Different banks charge different rates, so shop around.

Guidebooks warn that banks close at noon and close for the day at 2:45 p.m., but this is changing. Many banks in Lisbon now stay open at noon and do not close until 3 p.m. A few in the Algarve have begun to follow that lead.

For more information on Portugal, contact the Portuguese National Tourist Office, 548 Fifth Ave., New York 10036; (212) 354-4403.