Money-Changers Being Swept Out of Singapore Alley

When Britain had an empire and Singapore was one of its jewels, Change Alley was the haunt of soldiers and sailors in search of a deal.

But the dingy lane, which has drawn bargain-hunting shoppers for almost half a century, has become a victim of progress in this modern city-state. The Environment Ministry has announced that the alley’s shops will be leveled in April under an urban renewal plan.

Change Alley got its name from the money-changers, usually Indian, who were the 100-yard lane’s first traders, dealing in currencies most banks would shy away from.

Over the years it became an outdoor supermarket of sorts where almost everything was available.

Big padlocks and closure notices scrawled on some of the 140 timbered stalls on the lane indicate that the alley’s days are numbered.

“It’s a pity one more of Singapore’s landmarks will disappear,” said trader Mohammed Farruk, who started tending his shop when he was only 7.

“We will miss many of our customers whom we know by their first names,” said Farruk, now 40. “They like Change Alley because it is the cheapest place.”

Attracted Soldiers

Sandwiched in the banking and business district between Clifford Pier and Raffles Place, Change Alley attracted British soldiers stationed in Singapore in the early 1940s and Australian and French soldiers in the Far East.

“Many of them came each year in rowing boats and ships as Change Alley’s name spread. Few areas then offered shopping under one roof as we did,” said Farruk, surrounded by cameras, jeans, watches, porcelain statuettes and replicas of galleons.

The number of troops now visiting the alley has dwindled. The buzz of Soviet voices is more likely to be heard than the Queen’s English or American slang.

The U.S. Navy calls only occasionally and New Zealand soldiers, stationed in Singapore since 1969, will be leaving over the next few years.

In the meantime Singapore has become a center for repairing Soviet civilian ships, especially from its fishing fleets.

“We have now more Russian and Romanian sailors,” Farruk said. “The replicas are made by Romanian sailors during long voyages. They sell them for about $15 U.S. dollars apiece. With the money, they buy clothes, cheap perfumes and watches.”

Soviet sailors, short of foreign cash, sell caviar in exchange for Japanese toys, Indonesian shirts and Thai woodcarvings.

Goods Available

“If we can’t provide something from our shops, we get it from other places,” Farruk said.

But the fabled Change Alley of old had already fallen into bad times even before the redevelopment plan was announced.

“Business is dull. More tourists head for Orchard Road to shop in the air-conditioned stores stacked with videocassette recorders, cordless telephones, Gucci shoes and Lacoste shirts,” he said.

However, bargaining remains in force in Change Alley. New Zealand soldiers and American tourists haggle over prices, undeterred by heavy rains pouring through a flimsy tin roof.

One still hears the old cry: “Money-change, mister. Good rates,” from Indians with pockets bulging with money.

The changers do a brisk business thanks to a volatile world exchange market and their offers of rates more attractive than the banks.

“Change Alley has a warmth, a character, which I do not see in America’s shopping malls,” said Charles Garber, an engineer from Maryland.

“I hate to see the place shut down, despite the wheeling and dealing that goes on here,” he said.