No Need to Go Cross-Country for This Gold

In the late 1850s the miners couldn’t help themselves.

When they looked intently on the Sierra Nevada’s rugged eastern range they saw visions of gold--and they were right! There is gold here. It is cold, white and feathery and draws millions of outdoor enthusiasts.

Mammoth, already one of the world’s most successful alpine ski resorts, is becoming a reputable cross-country skiing center.

“The range is perfect. It is relatively high but relatively gentle,” said John Dittli, a guide at Tamarack Lodge.

With four centers for daily cross-country skiing in the Mammoth area, the sport’s growth is evident. The Rock Creek Lodge to the south, the Sierra Meadows at Old Mammoth, Tamarack Lodge at Twin Lakes and the Mammoth Ranger Visitor Center offer day trips for skiers of all abilities.

Hiking or Skiing

Before putting on their skis, cross-country skiers should stop at the visitor center to find out what kind of trail passes are required, as well as information on weather conditions and avalanche danger. The ranger station is on California 203 about three miles west of U.S. 395.

Mammoth Lakes has always been the center of some of California’s best hiking, what with John Muir and Pacific Crest trails intersecting at Reds Meadows in Devil’s Postpile National Monument, only a few miles behind stately Mammoth Mountain.

Guides say skiers with intermediate skills--those who can make a good wedge, kick turns, traverse a steep slope and have basic orienteering knowledge--can enjoy cross-country skiing.

Popular Outings

The following are four popular day trips:

--Morgan Pass Trail. It is 14 miles round trip. The trail starts at the parking lot at East Fork, a state-designated snow-parking area two miles from Rock Creek Lodge, five miles south of Tom’s Place off U.S. 395.

Ski two miles to the lodge and continue to Mosquito Flats on Rock Creek’s groomed trail system. Skiers will enter into Little Lakes Valley. The trail crosses frozen lakes and gentle rises between the lakes. Follow the summer trail to Bear Creek Spire. There is an elevation gain of 600 feet to reach Morgan Pass.

Overall, there is a 2,000-foot rise more than seven miles toward Sierra Crest.

Begin at Lodge

--Duck Pass Trail. It’s also 14 miles round trip. The trail starts at the Tamarack Lodge trail head and follows Lake Mary Road to Cold Water campground. From there it follows the summer trail to Duck Pass.

This trail involves steeper climbs than Morgan Pass, and skiers must break their own trail some of the way. Two sections test even advanced skiers, but the effort is worthwhile. Duck Pass offers a fine panorama toward Silver Divide or Mammoth Lakes basin. The more adventurous can connect with the John Muir Trail once over Duck Pass, and continue far into the back country.

--Reds Meadow Trails. The round trip covers 18 miles. The trail starts at the Mammoth Mountain ski lodge near the base of chairlift 11 where the road to Devil’s Postpile is no longer plowed. Take the route to Minaret Vista, then descend into the valley forged by the middle fork of the San Joaquin River. The return trip is a 2,100-foot elevation gain.

Reds Meadows also can be reached on a shorter but more difficult route, via Tamarack ski area over Mammoth Pass. The longer route follows the road past Agnew Meadows and into Reds Meadow.

Many make this an overnight trip, and ski to Rainbow Falls and Devil’s Postpile.

--San Joaquin Ridge Trail. It’s 10 miles round trip to Deadman Pass. The trail starts at the Mammoth Mountain parking lot. Ski to the summer road at Minaret Summit and ski north along San Joaquin Ridge.

This path is good for open and bowl skiing; it has glorious views of the Minarets and the Ritter Range, including Banner Peak.

According to Marcus Libkind in his book, “Ski Tours in the Eastern Sierra,” skiers can get a firsthand look at Deadman Pass and the cornices that adorn it north of the summit, but the vantage point along the ridge is narrow. Many skiers like to take this route to Thousand Island Lake.

Mammoth to Yosemite

This route also is the start of a Mammoth to Yosemite back-country excursion.

Rock Creek offers eight-day tours from Mammoth to Yosemite for $525 with meals, although experienced skiers can make the trek in a day with a light pack.

Once in the solitude of the Sierra, John Moynier, a guide for Rock Creek Lodge, and friends saw coyotes climbing steep cliffs to go skiing down the embankment on their hind legs, using their front legs as brakes.

Because of the mild California winters the bears do not hibernate and can be seen foraging for food. Moynier said he has seen bears at the 12,000-foot level.

With the use of climbing skins, a mohair surface attached to the bottom of the skis, it is possible to ascend the sheerest ledges. Some tours to Yosemite climb the marvelous peaks bursting through the granite-filled gorges.

Though Mammoth to Yosemite is the Sierra’s most popular tour, according to Moynier it has fewer than 10% of the summer usage.

A Picnic Brunch

One of the special features on Rock Creek’s excursion is a picnic brunch in the middle of the forest complete with wine, crackers and pate and guides dressed as waiters.

The tour ends by skiing to Yosemite Valley or returning over Tioga Pass, which now has a winter resort operation.

“Tioga Pass is really scary,” said Moynier, echoing the sentiments of almost anyone who has been on the Sierra’s highest mountain pass. “Generally you walk.”

He said it takes about two hours to make the 10-mile walk. Most skiers have someone waiting to pick them at the point where the road is plowed. Or skiers can arrange a ride from Tioga Pass resort.

Hut Skiing

Another popular excursion is hut skiing. The wood and canvas huts have wood stoves and provide overnight shelter.

They can be reserved from Rock Creek for $25 the first night and $20 each additional night.

With a guide, the cost is $95 the first night, $85 additional nights, including all meals.

Rock Creek also offers a hut tour: three days and two nights for $200, including one night at the lodge.

Powder camps at Long Lake for more experienced skiers cost $225 (three days, two nights).

Perhaps the ultimate Sierra tour is the nine-day Sierra High Route, which costs $625 and is for experienced skiers. It begins just north of Mt. Whitney and follows the boundary of Kings Canyon and Sequoia national parks. The route stays above 12,000 feet for about 30 miles; it starts in the high desert and ends in the giant sequoia forests on the western range.

The season begins in late November or December and is best in late spring. The back-country snow pack often remains into June and July, Moynier said.

Nordic Ski Centers

Rock Creek Winter Lodge, 5 miles south of Tom’s Place off U.S. 395 on Rock Creek Road. Telephone: (619) 935-4464. Trail fee $5. Lessons $25 (includes trail fee). Rentals $12. Instruction is offered on back-country skiing. This facility provides skiers a change of scenery, with rugged desert terrain shadowed by the Sherwin range.

Sierra Meadows Ski Touring Center, Old Mammoth Road, a mile south of California 203. Telephone: (619) 934-6161. Trail fee $8, $5 half-day. Lessons $15. Rentals $13. There are 55 kilometers of groomed cross-country trails.

Tamarack Lodge at Twin Lakes, three miles west of Mammoth Lakes. Telephone: (619) 934-2442. Trail fee $10, $7 half-day (16 and under, free). Lessons $16 group, $25 private. Rentals $14. More than 25 miles of groomed trails, also plenty of virgin territory off the beaten track. The lodge offers one of the area’s nicest, warmest dinners, reasonably priced.

U.S. Forest Service Visitor Center, three miles west of U.S. 395 on California 203 just before the town center. Telephone (619) 934-2505. No trail fee. More than 25 miles of marked trails, including some that lead to the back country. A trail pass is mandatory. No lessons or rentals available.

The rangers’ office emphasizes the need for careful planning before heading into the back country. Skiers must be prepared for warmer or colder temperatures than forecast, and should be ready to spend more time in the wilderness than planned, in case of rapid changes of weather. To stay overnight you must have a wilderness permit.

For Mammoth weather information, call (619) 934-6611.