St. Tropez Seen Through Rose-Colored Glasses

Actress Brigitte Bardot may have made this sun-soaked Mediterranean port famous during the 1950s, but artists had discovered it a half-century earlier.

Henri Matisse, Paul Signac and Pierre Bonnard made the village fashionable long before Bardot came along. Intrigued by its radiant sunlight and startling beauty, they were the first of a wave of painters, writers and other artists who embraced St. Tropez as their haven.

French author Colette came here to escape the wet lash of Paris winters. Various film stars adopted the town, and Francoise Sagan wrote “A Certain Smile” in her room at a hotel overlooking the old port.

The name itself comes from the Christian centurion Tropez, who was beheaded by the Emperor Nero and had his body set adrift from Pisa in a small boat. As legend has it, it washed ashore here.

From then until the late 1900s, St. Tropez had a colorful history of offshore naval battles and onshore insurrections against authority that still are celebrated by festivals each summer.

Next summer’s sportswear styles first appear on the beaches here, but something of the town’s old character remains, too. Fishermen still sell their catch along the quay every morning.

Getting here: Fly Air France nonstop to Paris, UTA nonstop from San Francisco. A number of American and foreign carriers will get you there with changes. Take Air France or Air Inter to Nice, a bus or rental car to St. Tropez.

How long/how much? Plan on a minimum stay of three or four days. Lodging ranges from moderate to expensive, with the high season the most costly.

A few fast facts: The franc recently traded at six to the dollar, about 16 cents each. Stay away during July-August, when the town is jammed beyond belief.

Getting settled in: La Ponche (Place de Revelin on the port; $67 to $125 low season, $75-$142 high) was an old fishermen’s bistro from 1885 until 1937, and Pablo Picasso often dropped in for an afternoon drink.

La Ponche is an elegant, small hotel, filled with antique furnishings and decorated with paintings.

Bedrooms are bright, with flowered linens and draperies. Some have small balconies and views of the bay or town’s tile rooftops.

Ermitage (Avenue Paul Signac; $75-$83 double) sits on a hill above the town center, with views of the bay and surrounding hills. It’s a comfortably old-fashioned place, with more antique furniture and a handsome old wooden bar. Bedrooms are neat but simple. Breakfast only, which you may take in the garden.

Les Palmiers (Place des Lices; $42-$58 double) is right on the town’s main square, with its stand of trees and an old pink townhouse secluded in a garden behind weathered walls. The tiny reception area leads into a comfortable bar and lounge. Only breakfast is served, but the square has a number of bistros for other meals and snacks.

Regional food and drink: Fresh Mediterranean seafood is a staple along the south coast. And, while Marseilles is home to bouillabaisse, you’ll find more than acceptable versions here, along with burride , a whitefish soup that makes use of local ingredients, and brandade , cod prepared in a variety of delicious ways. Also popular are rascasse (hog fish), rouget , another type of fish, and loup , a type of sea bass.

Those who prefer red meat will find the lamb excellent. The rose, red and white wines of Provence are worth sipping.

Fine local dining: The dining room or port-side terrace of La Ponche is a good first stop for superb local food. As we sat down to order, a fisherman came in with rascasse stuffed with herbs and cooked on a bed of vegetables perfumed with thyme and laurel.

The daily menu at La Ponche ($15) includes fisherman’s soup or pasta, choice of veal, chicken breast or the rascasse in a sublime sauce.

Le Girelier (Quai Jean Jaures) is on the main port. Order the daurade , loup , grilled fresh sardines or the bouillabaisse for two. Prices are on the high side.

Going first-class: Le Byblos (Avenue Paul Signac; $239-$346 high season, $149-$249 low) captures every bit of the spirit, informality and beauty of St. Tropez in its mini-village of Provencal villa-style buildings, terraces and pool. Palm and olive trees, cypress and bougainvillea engulf you in this hidden enclave.

The rooms, some with lofts, have exquisite tile baths with Jacuzzi tubs, great old wooden doors, the finest fabrics and every possible amenity. Dine in La Braiserie, or just as elegantly on the pool terrace, and choose from a menu that gives you the very best St. Tropez has to offer.

On your own: St. Tropez is a stroller’s paradise. After walking the quay a few times, stop in at the Musee de l’Annonciade for a formidable collection including the works of Bonnard, Raoul Dufy, Matisse, Georges Rouault, Maurice Utrillo, Maurice de Vlaminck and Signac.

Each of St. Tropez’s many beaches is noted for having its own personality and devotees. Bouillabaisse is the closest to town and considered a locals’ beach, while Tahiti and Moorea beaches are probably the best for checking out who’s in town. Taboo Beach is the haunt of youngsters, and Le Club 55 is a hangout for the chic.

After your day in the sun, head for the fire-engine-red awnings and chairs of Cafe Senequier on the port. Order the traditional licorice-flavored cordial pastis or coffee, and watch the beautiful people go by.

For more information: Call the French National Tourist Office at (213) 271-6665 or 272-2661, or write (9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 303, Beverly Hills 90212) for a brochure and map of southeast France, including the Cote d’Azur and St. Tropez.