Reborn Ritz Surfaces as Delmonico’s

What do you do with a Cajun restaurant once blackened fish has lost its original appeal? If you’re the Ritz Cafe, you stop blackening the fish.

You also change your name--in this case to Delmonico’s Seafood Grille, 9320 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., (213) 550-7737--to prove your commitment to the next hot trend. You change the menu too, adding every sort of seafood you can think of. And then to make sure you’ve covered all your bases, you add a lot of pasta dishes and throw in a few steaks and chops as well.

What you don’t do is change the room very much. Why would you? With its private wooden booths running around the perimeter, this continues to be one of the most comfortable restaurants in town. The service hasn’t changed much either--it’s every bit as snappy as it has always been.