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FASHION : Big Tops

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Times Staff Writer

When it comes to enhancing problem figures, nobody faces a greater challenge than Arthur Boccia. He dresses the elephants, camels and llamas, along with humans, for the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus.

As the circus swings into high gear this weekend at the L.A. Sports Arena, audiences will see more than 300 outfits Boccia styled for 24 dancers, as well as about 50 ensembles he designed for the animals.

“Most of my efforts are spent on the elephants, because they’re so large,” he said. “We measure them with a large tape measure and can’t make a mistake.” Their glittering blankets are embroidered canvas and can weigh up to 300 pounds.

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It can take as many as five fittings to get one right. “Performers on Broadway don’t have so many fittings,” Boccia said. But still, he’d rather dress elephants than camels. “Camels spit, especially if they don’t like the costumes.”

Earning about $100,000 annually, Boccia, 44, labors up to nine months on each production, which tours for two years and boasts its own themes and colors. (He also designs costumes for Walt Disney’s Kingdom on Ice.)

With sketches in tow, he goes to the Eaves-Brooks theatrical costume shop in New York City, where he supervises a staff of 100 in creating the attire. Established in 1860, the shop also supplies costumes for Broadway shows, theme parks and television and film.

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“Our job is to make the blankets comfortable and last for years,” said Maggy Cook, the shop’s general manager. “With the elephants, we make sure the weight is evenly distributed. We are careful to make things fit well.”

The operation then moves to the circus’ winter headquarters in Venice, Fla., where in huge outdoor arenas, fittings are conducted under the supervision of trainers.

Enter Gunther Gebel-Williams. The renowned animal trainer, who amid hoopla and hype is scheduled to retire from the ring when the tour ends next year in Pittsburgh, has worked closely with Boccia during the designer’s 17-year stint with Ringling Bros. (Boccia also makes most of the trainer’s outfits.)

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“Arthur has a tough job,” Gebel-Williams allowed during intermission at a recent performance in Anaheim. “Every two years we have different colors. It’s difficult to do blankets and make them go around the elephants just right. In so many years, we have had no problems.”

Of the nation’s top 30 circuses, few place heavy emphasis on costuming.

North Hollywood-based Circus Vargas has for six years contracted with Las Vegas designer Hedy Joe Starr to manufacture costumes for its people and animals. Last year, she billed the circus in excess of $250,000, spending about $80,000 on sequins alone.

At Carson & Barnes, a family-owned concern headquartered at Hugo, Okla., co-owner Barbara Byrd has designed costumes for 15 years. But, largely, performers supply their own animal blankets and headgear. “We don’t try to compete with the glamour production numbers and costumes of Ringling Bros.,” said promotional director Donna Milson.

Added Bruce Pratt, national marketing director for Florida-based Clyde Beatty-Cole Bros., now in its 104th edition: “We only have a wardrobe mistress who coordinates our costumes for the opening parade and finale spec. We try to make our show look different each year, but our emphasis is not on our costumes. Most of our animals parade naked.”

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