A Visit to Balboa: Views From Pristine to Trendy

Miles of sandy beach, one of California’s largest pleasure-craft harbors and some colorful coastal history are some of the attractions of a walk along Balboa Beach. Balboa--the town, beach and island--was long ago (1906) incorporated into the city of Newport Beach, but has managed to hold on to a different look, feel, vibe than chichi Newport.

Local boosters and real estate promoters built the Balboa Pier and Balboa Pavilion in 1905 with hopes of luring tourists and well-heeled settlers. They succeeded on both counts. Today, Balboa’s sand strand hosts huge crowds of surfers and sun worshipers, and as one harbor cruise company boasts: “You’ll see some of the most expensive coastal real estate in the world.”

On the Balboa walk, you’ll also encounter two historic piers and a chance to take the ferry to Balboa Island.

For those weekend warriors who scoff at the mere 3-mile round-trip distance between Newport and Balboa piers, I recommend starting your beach walk at popular Huntington State Beach, 3 miles north.

If you trek this longer option, you’ll begin your 10-mile walk by heading down-coast on Huntington Beach, once called Shell Beach because millions of small bean clams were washed up on its sands. In recent years, Pismo clamming has undergone something of a revival here.

At the south end of the beach you’ll cross the Santa Ana River on the Coast Highway bridge. Formerly, the river emptied into the ocean at Newport Bay, but was diverted to shore at this point to reduce silting after the bay became a great yacht harbor. Next you’ll head shoreward over some sand dunes on the east side of the river, then walk down-coast on Santa Ana River County Beach to Newport Pier.

Directions to the trailhead: Head southwest on California 55 toward Newport Beach. In Costa Mesa, the highway empties out onto Newport Boulevard, which you’ll follow to its end at the beach. Just as Newport Boulevard angles sharply southeast and puts you on Balboa Boulevard, you’ll spot the Newport Pier and a number of parking lots. Parking in these parts is mostly metered. Beware that some of the meters give you only an hour; you’ll need more time to enjoy this walk.

The hike: Begin at the historic Newport Pier, one of the oldest in Southern California. A wharf built here in 1888 served as a railway shipping point for Orange County produce. The railroad also carried passengers here from Santa Ana and helped foster the development of the city of Newport Beach.

Almost a century ago, the Newport Dory fishing fleet began working the waters of Balboa Peninsula. The fishermen are still at it, still headquartered at the foot of Newport Pier. Each dawn, the fleet heads out to sea and returns to the pier in mid-morning to sell its catch of rock fish and sea bass, crab and lobster.

Walk down-coast along the beach. The beach, particularly the stretch north of the pier, looks quintessentially post-card perfect, but has occasionally suffered from erosion and lack of sand. Orange County’s inland building booms diverted many streams from their normal paths to the sea; the streams were unable to perform their natural function of carrying a cargo of sand to the Pacific. More sand is lost to the Newport Submarine Canyon, located just offshore.

A mile and a half of beach-walking brings you to the Balboa Pier, where a plaque commemorates the site of the first water-to-water flight in 1912. Glenn L. Martin flew a hydroplane from the waters here to Avalon Bay at Catalina Island.

Near the pier is Peninsula Park with picnic tables. The sidewalks are a popular slalom course for young skaters equipped with high-tech roller blades.

Walking into town on Main Street, you’ll cross East Balboa Boulevard and come to the marina. Harbor tour companies are based here. You can join a short cruise of Newport Harbor or do it yourself by renting a pedal-boat or kayak.

Walk along the historic Balboa boardwalk. Remodeling and new construction have obliterated most of the early building prompted by the extension of electric railway service from Los Angeles in 1905. Still standing is that landmark of Victorian architecture, the Balboa Pavilion. The pavilion has served as a Pacific Electric Railway Terminal, a seaside recreation center and a 1940s dance hall. Next to the pavilion is the Fun Zone, a small collection of rides and arcades.

From the foot of Palm Street, right along the boardwalk, you can catch the Balboa Ferry, which runs frequently and is a bargain at 20 cents for adults, 10 cents for kids. Ferry service was inaugurated in 1907 by a genial boatman named John Watts, who encouraged his open launch, the Teal, with great draughts from an oil can. Today’s small auto ferries make the 200-yard or so voyage in fewer than five minutes.

On Balboa Island, you can follow a scenic boardwalk to boat slips and small sandy beaches. Balboa Island had its beginning in 1906 when W. S. Collins dredged bay mud onto a sand flat that appeared in Newport Bay during low tide. He subdivided the island and by 1914, more than one-half the 1,300 lots were sold.

After you’ve enjoyed the island, take the ferry back to the peninsula and return the same way.

Balboa Beach Trail

Newport Pier to Balboa Island: 3 miles round trip