Advertisement

Out of Time : Riverside Market to Close Doors on Era That Doesn’t Seem to Require It

Share
TIMES STAFF WRITER

Dwarfed by warehouse supermarkets and threatened by shrinking profits, it was the little market that could.

Now it can’t.

Riverside Market, a landmark grocery store that has stood at the same North Hollywood intersection for more than 40 years, will close early next month because the property is being sold to a developer who may replace it with a retail center containing a bank, gift shop and real estate brokerage firm.

“It’s the end of a neighborhood institution,” said Tom Paterson, president of the Valley Village Homeowners Assn. “There aren’t very many like it around.”

Advertisement

Three generations of the Damus family have run the one-story, white store at Riverside Drive and Laurel Canyon Boulevard since it opened in the late 1940s as an open-air market and offered locally grown oranges, corn and apricots. Despite diminishing annual returns that plummeted last year to a profit of only $25,000, the family has kept the store open until 2 a.m. daily, 365 days a year.

Now the market, which was enclosed in the 1950s and has low ceilings and exposed rafters, looks half-naked, with shelves stripped of canned goods and freezers left empty.

“It was our second home for 40 years, but it can’t be helped,” said Vic Damus Sr., 70, who bought the store eight months before the end of World War II. The elder Damus has leukemia and has largely left the closing of the store and the dismissal of its 15 employees to his son Mike and other children.

“It’s been a tough situation all along because of Price Club and the warehouse supermarkets,” Mike Damus, 33, said. “There’s a 50-50 chance we’ll relocate in south Van Nuys or Studio City.”

So-called “mom-and-pop” stores are “a dying breed” and are closing all over the state, said Don Beaver, president of the Sacramento-based California Grocers Assn. Beaver said the group does not keep such statistics, but he estimated that close to half of the state’s 20,000 grocery stores are former small markets that have been converted to quick-stop convenience stores.

“It’s progress,” Beaver said.

A woman buying soda in the Riverside Market on Tuesday agreed, saying she “never trusted” the store because its meat and produce are displayed in older cases instead of shiny, new ones.

Advertisement

But longtime patron Roger Knight, a movie-set dresser in his late 30s, said the store’s passing will leave a void in the community. Knight was buying rabbit and stuffed pork chops, prepared to order by the store’s butcher.

“This is the kind of place that if you were short on cash, they’d let you go home and bring back the money later,” Knight said. “It has a neighborhood feel. I wish they’d find another place for that shopping center.”

“It’s like a little piece of home,” said Patt Bellevilli, 28, who moved from Detroit to North Hollywood last year. “I hate big grocery stores because you never meet your neighbors there.”

The lot is being bought by Long Beach developer Bob Champion, who declined Tuesday to reveal the purchase price. One of the conditions of sale was that the market and a nearby florist shop and shoe-repair store be vacated, said Tom Leanse, an attorney for the Damuses.

Champion said he may raze the stores and build three, one-story, free-standing buildings that would be occupied by a bank, a gift store chain outlet and a real estate company. Another option is to renovate the existing buildings, but they are in poor condition, he said.

Councilman Joel Wachs, who occasionally shops at the market, said he hopes that Champion will consult with residents’ groups before developing the property. If Champion does not, “then to the extent that I have leverage, I’ll use it” to influence city decisions on development of the site, Wachs said.

Advertisement
Advertisement