Tokyo Menswear: Style as a Form of Self-Expression
Young Japanese men rank among the world’s most fashion-conscious, not just because of their considerable supply of disposable yen. For them, fashion is a leading means of self-expression.
Clothes far outrank the home as a way of communicating personality, because fewer young men in Tokyo can afford to own property than can purchase extensive wardrobes. Cars aren’t the status symbol that they are in the United States either, because a would-be purchaser must secure one of the city’s relatively few private parking places before he is allowed to own a car.
While individual expression is only beginning to be valued in Japan, where the traditional way has been to play down unique traits, there was strong evidence of the changing attitude during this month’s Tokyo Collections. Japanese designers showed their spring ’90 styles and menswear featured many of the same bold trends seen in the women’s wear collections. And models were American or European more often than Japanese, to further accent an open, international attitude.
Transparency, cutouts, metallic fabrics and mesh are all visible in the new menswear. And an element of fantasy permeates nearly every collection.
Leading proponents of these new looks include a small group of cutting-edge designers. Among them are Yoshiyuki Konishi, inspired by ‘60s rock ‘n’ roll; Yoichi Nagasawa, who studied fashion in Paris as well as Tokyo; Kazutaka Katoh, known for his custom tailoring and his original career plan of becoming a fine artist, and Akira Onozuka, whose sense of style is the most playful of the group.
Konishi’s spring collection is inspired by 1960s fashion. The colors, decorations and exuberance of the flower-power era are projected in his glittering lames, eye-popping patterns, collage sweaters and exquisite beaded jackets.
The 39-year-old designer is a graduate of Japan’s fashion design school, Bunke Fukusu Cakuin. He has had his own label since 1981.
In a nod to ecology, his latest collection features sweaters of knit mixed with fishnet, embroidered with colorful fruits and vegetables. Belts spill over with a harvest of dangling produce.
Some embroidered jackets are teamed with pants that are also embroidered, on just one leg. Some embroidery is based on American Indian symbols.
Konishi uses the most peppery of the season’s popular spice and nature tones--persimmon, paprika, curry, pumpkin, peach. But he doesn’t ignore his favorite spectrum of clear brights.
Novelties in his line are the see-through knit vests and jackets, paisley lame Bermuda shorts, Lurex bicycle shorts, and narrow, sequined pants in reptile patterns. Accessories include lame socks.
Nagasawa, 32, designs under the Tokio Kumagai label. His new collection features washed silk suits in pale spice colors. The most unusual jackets are cut low in back, then filled in with matching fabric for a layered look. Other unusual items are his soft, creaseless jersey pants with deep pleats in black, and sarong pants that tie in front, worn with matching wrap shirts for a jumpsuit effect.
Nagasawa offers more than one version of the transparency trend: embroidered, sheer white silk shirts, and an unlined jacket of glossy black mesh.
Kazutaka Katoh, age 46, originally intended to become an artist but changed direction after he studied made-to-order tailoring. He worked with Japan’s well-known Bigi Co., from 1971, and established his own label in 1976. For spring he shows well-tailored suits in pale gray, celadon or almond worn with ruffled shirts. For unmatched suit looks, he shows muted watercolor jackets with checked pants.
Fashion details include shirts worn untucked and scarfs used as belts as well as bow ties. Trendier looks in his collection are sheer coats and jackets, appliqued or patchworked shorts, fringed jackets, mesh vests and striped suits with embroidered breast pockets.
Born in 1950, Akira Onozuka’s fresh colorful clothes are sold under the Odds On label and are usually snapped up by younger customers who appreciate their playful disposition.
At Odds On, spring and summer ’90 silk shirts look like paintings of a sunset, with fiery apricot fading into sky blue. Gingham checks are worked into quadrants of primary colors for a single jacket. Linen suits in pale tints have knee pants and cummerbunds. Shades of orange and peach rule the designer’s striped pullover sweaters and cotton pants, cut wide but drawn in at the waist with a belt.
Repeated themes throughout the shows are washed silk fabrics for office as well as informal wear, unusual color choices, especially spice shades, instead of traditional khaki, gray, navy and black, and specialty items such as zouave pants (peg-top peasant trousers), cummerbunds for informal wear and wrap-around shirts, usually associated with women’s wear.
