Winging It

The movie: “Harlem Nights”

The look: Gangster polish, circa 1938. Without relying on costume cliches, tough guys Eddie Murphy, Richard Pryor, Redd Foxx et al. move in a decadent world without appearing boorish.

The costume designer: Joe I. Tompkins, two-time Emmy award winner for “Eleanor and Franklin” and “Eleanor and Franklin: The White House Years.” Other credits include “Swing Shift,” “Betrayed,” “Nuts,” “The River,” “Missing” and “True Confessions.”

The conflict: How to reinvent the gangster genre without regurgitating tired old fashion idioms. As Tomkins puts it, the characters “don’t have to run around in black shirts and white ties” to identify their place and profession.

The plan: Murphy, the film’s executive producer, writer, director and star, told Tompkins he wanted the costumes to be not exactly understated, but “crisp and smart, glamorous and good to look at,” says the designer. Consequently, the male characters, the real stars of this movie, rustle around in lush silk smoking jackets; broad-shouldered, slim-hipped suits and tuxedos; brocade tuxedo vests; perfectly cut cotton shirts, and handsome wide silk, faille and satin ties. But we’re not talking Fred Astaire time. This isn’t understated elegance; not with Eddie Murphy strutting in a snow white topcoat, white fedora, cream dinner jacket and diamond studs. The women characters, including Della Reese, Berlinda Tolbert and Jasmine Guy, are secondary. And their gowns are imaginative, especially the maribou-trimmed numbers, but not nearly as appealing as the menswear.

The program: Tompkins had all the principals’ clothes custom made, including suits, shirts, bow ties--and it shows. Details are first rate. To wit, underneath it all, Tompkins put the male stars in silk lisle or cotton lisle socks, considered top of the line in the late ‘30s. He found them at Brooks Brothers. Men’s jewelry, including collar pins, tie bars, studs and watch fobs, was found in local antique jewelry stores--Repeat Performance in Los Angeles and Marion’s Chest of Jewels in Hollywood in particular. Many of the ‘30s ties came from Tompkins’ personal collection. For men’s shoes, Tompkins maintains that Ralph Lauren makes the best wing tips around.

The payoff: With New Year’s Eve approaching, men in the audience can learn a few basics about formal wear at this movie. So much of the ‘30s look, especially the wing-collar shirts, are back in style today. Tompkins had all his shirts custom-made, but he says that after the film wrapped he discovered, too late, the “drop dead” wing-collar shirts made by Hugo Boss. And clip-on ties were verboten. One of the film’s dressers was strictly responsible for hand-tying bow ties. According to Tompkins, the only cast member who could tie his own was Redd Foxx.