Men’s Wear: Softer Lines for Spring

The tough-guy image is gone from next spring’s men’s wear. Softness prevails. According to Thomas Julian, associate director of the Men’s Fashion Assn., cutting-edge clothes are made in easy-drape materials. The season’s relaxed shapes include two fashion news makers--shirt-jackets and tubular trousers. A number of designers are showing them.

Cecilia Metheny’s tubular pants, for example, are so soft “they are folded up and sold on shelves in stores,” says Julian.

Julian illustrated his forecasts with garments from leading U.S. and European firms, including Metheny, Girbaud, Jeff Sayre, Ronaldus Shamask, Mondo, Zylos and Marienbad. He was here from New York to photograph some of the trend-setting styles to be seen in the January MFA show at the Biltmore Hotel.

Julian spoke enthusiastically over next spring’s stellar fabrics: super-soft viscose rayon, rayon blended with wool crepe and supple linens. Stellar shapes include unlined blousons, which Julian considers “an alternative to cardigan dressing.”

The soft-shape blouson, rather than a sport coat, which was the trendy look last year, will be worn with next year’s shorts, which will be cuffed, longer (to the kneecap) and less tailored.

Unusual knits (in great demand, Julian says, since Bill Cosby began cavorting in flashy sweaters on his NBC sitcom) range from a Southwest-motif vest by Jeff Sayre to almost-sheer cotton pullovers and V-necks from Mondo.

In tailored clothing, men will find new lightweight fabrics, such as a mix of wool, silk, cotton and viscose, along with small houndstooth and bird’s-eye patterns in black and cream rather than black and white.

Accessories include a plethora of striped, spread-collar shirts and colorful, artistic neckwear. Marienbad, known for distinctive hand-loomed sweaters, now offers hand-painted vests and ties that look like wearable artworks.

For other designers, however, spring neckwear means dense, colorful florals, often against a black background.

Mustard, olive and pea green are among the season’s colors borrowed from “the vegetable family,” says Julian.

And if Julian were to suggest just one purchase for men to make next spring, what would it be? “The shirt jacket,” he says without a moment’s hesitation.